FAQs

Most decks in the Twin Cities West Metro range from $45 to $150+ per square foot, depending on materials, size, and overall complexity.

For a general idea:
• Basic wood decks: $25,000 – $40,000
• Composite decks (most common): $35,000 – $75,000+
• High-end outdoor living spaces: $75,000 – $150,000+

In today’s market, most homeowners investing in a low-maintenance, long-lasting deck land in the $50,000–$100,000 range.

Costs are driven by a few key factors:
• Material (composite vs wood)
• Deck size and layout
• Height and structural complexity
• Features like railing, lighting, and pergolas
• Site conditions and access

While you may see lower ranges online, those are based on national averages. Decks in Minnesota typically cost more due to frost-depth footings, stricter code requirements, and higher-quality materials that are designed to last in our harsh and fluctuating climate.

Bottom line:
Every project is different, but a professionally built deck in the West Metro is a significant investment—and one that should be designed to last decades.

At Lakeside Decking, we focus on building long-term outdoor spaces, not short-term solutions. 

Check out our 2026 Deck Price Guide for more!

Wood decking is typically less expensive upfront, but requires costly and time-intensive maintenance down the road. On the other hand, composite decking costs more initially but requires far less upkeep over time.

In Minnesota, composite decking is often about 1.5x to 2x the cost upfront compared to basic wood. However, the long-term cost gap is smaller than it appears.

Wood decks require:
• Staining or sealing every 1–2 years
• Ongoing repairs and board replacement

These maintenance costs can add up significantly over time, while composite decking is low-maintenance and designed to last decades. 

Bottom line:
Wood is cheaper to build. 
Composite is more expensive upfront, but often the better long-term investment. 

Most homeowners today choose composite because it offers longer lifespan, less maintenance, and a more consistent appearance over time.

The cost of a deck can vary significantly depending on the design, materials, and site conditions. No two projects are exactly the same, but a few key factors drive most of the cost.

Size and layout: Larger decks and custom layouts require more materials and labor than simple rectangular designs.

Material selection: Composite and PVC decking cost more upfront than wood but offer longer lifespan and lower maintenance.

Height and structure: Elevated decks, walkouts, and unique framing features like post removal for unobstructed views increase cost due to additional support, engineering, and safety requirements.

Features and upgrades: Add-ons like cable railing, lighting, pergolas, and drainage systems can significantly increase the overall investment.

Site conditions: Sloped yards, poor soil, or limited access can make installation more complex and labor-intensive.

Permits and code requirements: In Minnesota, frost-depth footings and local building codes add to both material and labor costs.

Bottom line:
The final cost comes down to how simple or customized the project is—but most homeowners are balancing budget with long-term durability and overall experience.

Our process is built to help you understand those tradeoffs upfront, so there are no surprises later. 

The cost of a TimberTech deck can vary quite a bit, but in Minnesota, most projects fall in the range of $100–$150+ per square foot installed, depending on the product line and complexity.

Typical cost ranges in Minnesota
• TimberTech Composite → ~$85-$125 per sq. ft. installed
• TimberTech Advanced PVC → ~$100-$150+ per sq. ft. installed

For context:
• A 200 sq. ft. TimberTech deck often lands around $30,000–$35,000+
• Larger or more complex projects can easily exceed $50,000–$100,000+ depending on features

The decking itself is only part of the price. Major factors include:
• Size and layout
• Height and structural requirements
• Stairs, railing, and lighting
• Site conditions and access
• Demolition and disposal of an existing deck
• Permits, engineering, and approvals

In most projects, labor and framing make up a large portion of the total cost, not just the decking boards.

Material vs. total project cost
• TimberTech decking boards alone may cost roughly $10–$26+ per sq. ft. depending on the line
• But the full installed deck cost is significantly higher because it includes structure, labor, and features

TimberTech is typically:
• More expensive upfront than standard wood
• Comparable to (or sometimes less than) premium hardwoods long-term
• A better value over time due to minimal maintenance and longer lifespan

Bottom line:
Most TimberTech decks in Minnesota fall in the $100–$150+ per square foot range installed, depending on design and features.

We focus on building fully customized projects, so pricing reflects not just the material—but the structure, details, and long-term performance of the entire system.

The cost to add stairs to a deck in the Twin Cities West Metro typically ranges from $2,000 to $9,000+, depending on whether you're adding stairs to an existing deck or including them in a new build, plus the height, width, and materials involved.

Cost to Add Stairs to an Existing Deck: $10,000 – $18,000 for a full staircase of 12-18 steps
Adding stairs to an existing deck is more expensive because of the additional labor and modifications required:
• New footings:  Most stair additions require American Ground Screw or concrete footings
• Framing modifications: Existing rim joists and ledger areas often need reinforcement
• Permit: Stair additions typically trigger a new permit with your city or municipality
• Material matching: Blending new TimberTech decking and aluminum railing with weathered existing materials

Cost to Add Stairs to a New Deck Build: $7,000 – $12,000
When stairs are designed into a new deck from the start, the marginal cost drops significantly because framing, footings, and materials are coordinated from day one—no demo, no retrofitting, no permit revisions.

Key Factors That Affect Stair Cost
• Height (rise): The single biggest variable. A 30-inch stoop drop costs far less than an 8-foot walkout descent
• Width: Standard 4-foot stairs vs. 6-foot+ entertaining stairs
• Landings: Minnesota code often requires a midway landing on taller runs
• Configuration: Straight runs are most affordable; wrap-around or corner stairs cost more
• Railing material: Aluminum, cable, or glass panels each carry different price points
• Landing surface: Stairs terminating onto a new patio or paver pad add scope

Bottom line
If you're already planning a new deck, designing stairs in from the start is always more cost-effective than adding them later. For existing decks, expect the price to reflect the full scope of footings, framing, and permitting—not just the visible treads and railing.

At Lakeside Decking, we only install stairs on full builds—that way every footing, frame, and finish is built right from the ground up.

A quality deck build in the Twin Cities West Metro typically ranges from $40,000 to $150,000+, depending on size, materials, structural complexity, and the features you integrate into your outdoor living space.

Typical Budget Ranges by Project Type
• Standard low-maintenance deck ($40,000 – $70,000): A well-built TimberTech deck with aluminum railing, ground screw footings, and a clean, simple footprint
• Mid-range deck with upgrades ($70,000 – $110,000): Larger footprint, multi-level design, integrated lighting, custom railing, and LP SmartSide trim details
• Premium outdoor living build ($110,000 – $150,000+): Full design-build projects featuring louvered pergolas, screened porches, under-deck drainage ceilings, and more

Key Factors That Affect Your Budget
• Square footage: The single biggest driver, but not the only one
• Decking material: TimberTech and other premium composites cost more upfront but eliminate staining, sealing, and board replacement
• Railing system: Aluminum, cable, and glass panels each carry different price points
• Footings: Ground screws vs. concrete, and how many your soil and design require
• Height and structure: Walkout decks, multi-level designs, and cantilevers add framing complexity
• Site access: Tight lots, sloped yards, and landscape protection add labor
• Integrated features: Lighting, pergolas, screened porches, and under-deck systems

What "Quality" Actually Buys You
A higher budget isn't about luxury for its own sake—it reflects a higher-quality contractor, better materials, proper structural engineering, code-compliant detailing (like stucco ledger flashing and frost-depth footings), and finish work that holds up through Minnesota winters. A cheaper deck almost always costs more over its lifetime in repairs, replacements, and lost enjoyment.

Bottom line
If you're planning a deck you'll actually use for the next 20+ years, budget for the build that matches how you want to live outside—not just the smallest number that gets boards off the ground.

At Lakeside Decking, we build every project as a long-term investment in your home, using premium low-maintenance materials and engineered structural systems designed to perform through every Minnesota season.

Yes - low-maintenance materials like composite or PVC decking are worth the extra cost, especially in a climate like Minnesota.

While composite decking typically costs more upfront than wood , it’s designed to last significantly longer and require far less upkeep.

Warranty & lifespan: Most composite decking products come with 25+ year warranties, with many lasting 25–50 years or more . By comparison, wood decks often last 10–20 years with regular maintenance, and often come with limited or no warranty. 

Maintenance savings: Wood requires ongoing staining, sealing, and repairs, while composite decking needs little more than occasional cleaning. Over time, this can offset much of the initial price difference.

Performance in Minnesota: Composite materials are built to resist moisture, rot, and freeze-thaw damage, which are major factors in Minnesota’s climate. Wood is more susceptible to cracking, warping, and deterioration if not consistently maintained.

Return on investment (ROI): Both options add value to a home, but composite decks are increasingly preferred by buyers due to their durability and low maintenance, often delivering strong long-term value and lifestyle improvement since they don't splinter or fade.

Bottom line:
Wood is cheaper upfront, but composite is built for longevity, lower maintenance, and better performance over time - which is why most homeowners today see it as the better long-term investment.

We focus heavily on low-maintenance materials because they align with how our clients actually want to use their space over time. 

For most homeowners in Minnesota, composite or PVC decking is the best overall choice due to its durability, low maintenance, and ability to handle harsh weather.

Minnesota decks are exposed to snow, ice, moisture, and freeze-thaw cycles, which can be tough on traditional materials.

Why composite and PVC perform best:
• Moisture resistance: Helps prevent rot, cracking, and warping during seasonal changes.
• Durability in extreme weather: Handles temperature swings without breaking down like wood.
• Low maintenance: No regular staining or sealing required.

What about wood?
Wood can still be a good option for a natural look and lower upfront cost, but it requires ongoing maintenance and is more prone to weather-related wear.

Bottom line:
Composite and PVC offer the best combination of longevity, low maintenance, and performance in Minnesota.

We only build with industry-leading low-maintenance materials because they consistently deliver the best long-term results for our clients.

The main difference between composite and PVC decking comes down to what they’re made of, and how they handle moisture over time. Composite decking is made from a blend of wood fibers and recycled plastics, while PVC decking is made from 100% synthetic materials with no organic content.

Here’s how that impacts performance:

Moisture resistance: PVC offers the highest level of protection since it contains no wood. Composite is still very durable, but because it includes wood fibers, it can be more vulnerable to moisture over time if not fully protected. This is especially important in Minnesota, where decks are exposed to snow, ice, and freeze-thaw cycles.

Durability: PVC is the most resistant to moisture, mold, and long-term wear. TimberTech’s fully-capped composite and PVC products are designed to perform better in damp or low-airflow environments.

Heat performance: PVC decking is typically less dense, which allows it to disperse heat more efficiently. As a result, it often stays cooler underfoot and disperses heat quicker compared to composite decking. 

Appearance: PVC decking often has a more natural, wood-like look. Composite tends to have a more uniform finish, especially in lower-end lines.

Cost: While there is some overlap, composite is generally more budget-friendly, while PVC sits at the higher end due to its performance and longevity.

Bottom line:
Composite offers a strong balance of appearance and value, while PVC provides the highest level of durability and moisture protection. Products like TimberTech, with full 4-sided capping, are built to perform especially well in harsh climates like Minnesota.

We help clients choose the right product based on how the space will actually be used, not just upfront cost. 

Low-maintenance decking—like composite or PVC—offers long-term durability and minimal upkeep, but it does come with a higher upfront cost.

Pros: 
• Low maintenance: No staining, sealing, or sanding required—just occasional cleaning.
• Long lifespan: Most products are designed to last 25–50+ years and come with strong manufacturer warranties.
• Durability: Resistant to rot, moisture, insects, and everyday wear—especially important in Minnesota’s freeze-thaw climate.
• Consistent appearance: Boards are manufactured for a uniform look and resist fading, cracking, and warping over time.

Cons:
• Higher upfront cost. 
• Heat retention: Some composite decking can get warmer in direct sunlight, especially darker colors. 
• Less natural feel: While designs have improved, some homeowners still prefer the look and feel of real wood.

Bottom line:
Low-maintenance decking costs more upfront, but for most homeowners, the longevity, reduced upkeep, and consistent performance make it a worthwhile long-term investment.

Low-maintenance is the only decking option we offer, because it aligns with our values of long-term performance and durability. 

TimberTech decking is designed to last decades—typically 25 to 50+ years and often longer, depending on the product line.
• TimberTech Composite: ~25–30+ years
• TimberTech Advanced PVC: 50+ years or more

These lifespans are backed by strong manufacturer warranties:
• Composite lines typically carry 25–30 year warranties
• PVC lines often include a lifetime product warranty and up to 50-year fade and stain coverage

Because TimberTech is engineered to resist moisture, rot, and UV damage, it holds up especially well in climates like Minnesota where decks are exposed to snow, ice, and freeze-thaw cycles.

Bottom line:
A properly built TimberTech deck is a long-term investment designed to last decades with minimal maintenance.

We pair high-performance materials with proper installation and industry best practices so the structure lasts just as long as the decking. 

For homeowners looking for long-term durability, non-wood framing options like steel, aluminum, and composite framing are some of the best choices for Minnesota decks. These materials are designed to handle moisture, snow, and freeze-thaw cycles without the movement and deterioration that can come with traditional wood framing.

Steel framing: One of the most durable options available. It won’t warp, rot, crack, or shrink, and it stays extremely straight over time—making it ideal for high-end decks where long-term stability matters.

Aluminum framing: Lightweight, corrosion-resistant, and highly stable. It performs well in wet environments and is a great option for projects where moisture resistance and precision are priorities.

Composite framing: Offers a middle ground, with improved resistance to moisture and decay compared to wood, while still being easier to work with than metal systems.

Why these perform well in Minnesota:
• No rot or organic breakdown
• Minimal expansion and contraction
• Better long-term stability through seasonal changes

Bottom line:
While wood framing is still common, steel, aluminum, and composite framing offer superior long-term performance—especially for homeowners investing in a deck built to last decades in Minnesota’s climate.

We use these systems regularly on high-end builds where long-term stability and finish quality matter. 

Alternative deck framing—like steel, aluminum, or composite framing—offers long-term durability and stability, but it comes at a higher upfront cost.

Pros:
• Long-term durability: These materials won’t rot, warp, or crack, making them ideal for Minnesota’s moisture and freeze-thaw cycles.
• Structural stability: They stay straighter over time, which can improve the overall look and performance of the deck surface.
• Low maintenance: No need to worry about wood decay, insect damage, or ongoing structural repairs.
• Longevity: Designed to last decades with minimal degradation, often outlasting the decking itself.

Cons:
• Higher upfront cost: Alternative framing is typically more expensive than traditional wood framing.
• Installation complexity: Metal and composite systems can require more precise installation and specialized knowledge.
• Less common: Not all contractors are experienced with these systems, which can limit options. 

Bottom line:
Alternative framing costs more upfront, but for homeowners prioritizing longevity, stability, and reduced long-term maintenance, it can be a smart investment - especially in Minnesota’s climate.

At Lakeside Decking, these systems are part of our standard process, so installation and performance are fully accounted for. 

Composite decking is not inherently slippery, but like any outdoor surface, it can become slick when covered with ice, snow, or standing water. That said, most modern composite and PVC decking is specifically designed with slip-resistant textures to improve traction - even in wet conditions.

The level of grip largely depends on the grain pattern and finish of the board. Deeper wood-grain textures and embossed finishes provide better traction than smoother surfaces.

TimberTech offers a range of textures and grain patterns across its product lines, many of which are engineered for enhanced slip resistance. Their Advanced PVC collections, for example, are designed to be slip-resistant and perform well in wet environments.

Some lines, like the Vintage Collection, offer up to 40% better traction than competing products, helping improve footing in both wet and dry conditions.

In Minnesota, the biggest factor isn’t the decking material itself—it’s ice formation. Any surface will be slippery if ice is present. However, composite and PVC decking have advantages:
• They resist moisture absorption (less risk of algae buildup vs wood)
• They maintain more consistent surface texture over time
• Many meet slip-resistance standards (COF ~0.5 or higher is considered slip-resistant)

How to improve traction in winter
• Choose boards with deeper grain or matte finishes
• Keep the deck clear of snow and ice
• Use safe ice melt products designed for composite decking

Bottom line:
Composite decking is generally safe and slip-resistant, especially with the right texture and product choice.

We guide clients toward specific TimberTech lines and finishes that perform well in Minnesota winters, so traction and safety are built into the design from the start.

Yes—composite decking can get warm in direct sunlight, especially on hot, sunny days. However, the level of heat depends on the color, material, and product line. Darker boards absorb more heat and will feel hotter underfoot, while lighter colors stay noticeably cooler.

PVC decking typically stays cooler than traditional composite because it is less dense and dissipates heat more efficiently. Higher-end capped products also tend to perform better than older or uncapped composites. 

Some manufacturers, like TimberTech, design their boards with heat-mitigating technology and advanced capping, which can help reduce surface temperature compared to standard composite decking. TimberTech Advanced PVC is widely regarded as the market leader for heat resistance and heat dissipation. 

On very hot days, any decking material—wood, composite, or PVC—can become uncomfortable in bare feet. Composite isn’t unique in that regard.

Bottom line:
Composite decking can get warm, but choosing lighter colors and higher-quality products can make a noticeable difference.

We help clients select colors and materials that balance aesthetics with comfort, especially for full-sun spaces.

For Minnesota decks, powder-coated aluminum railing is widely considered the best overall choice: it handles freeze-thaw cycles, road salt, snow load, and UV exposure without rusting, rotting, or fading. That said, the right railing depends on your view, your maintenance tolerance, and the architectural style of your home.

Top Railing Options for Minnesota Decks
• Aluminum railing: The gold standard for Minnesota. Powder-coated finishes resist corrosion, won't rot or splinter, and require almost zero maintenance. Holds up to snow shoveling and ice without damage.
• Cable railing: Sleek, modern, and view-preserving. Best for lakefront or wooded lots where you don't want to interrupt the sightline. Requires periodic tensioning to stay tight through seasonal expansion and contraction.
• Glass panel railing: Maximum view preservation and a high-end look, ideal for Lake Minnetonka properties. Requires regular cleaning—especially after Minnesota winters—but performs well structurally.
• Composite railing: A budget-friendlier low-maintenance option that pairs naturally with composite decking, though it lacks the slim profile of aluminum or cable.
• Wood railing: Warm and traditional, but the highest-maintenance option in our climate. Expect to stain or seal every 1–2 years to prevent cracking, graying, and rot.

Key Factors to Consider
• Climate performance: Freeze-thaw, snow load, and salt exposure all punish lesser materials
• View preservation: Cable and glass open up sightlines; aluminum balusters offer a clean but more traditional look
• Maintenance tolerance: Aluminum and composite are nearly maintenance-free; wood and glass require ongoing attention
• Architectural fit: Modern homes pair well with cable and glass; traditional homes often look best with aluminum balusters
• Code compliance: Minnesota requires 36" railing height on residential decks, with baluster spacing under 4 inches

Bottom line
For most Minnesota homeowners, powder-coated aluminum railing offers the best combination of durability, low maintenance, and clean aesthetics. For lakefront or view-driven properties, cable or glass railing is worth the upgrade.

At Lakeside Decking, we specify aluminum railing as our standard for nearly every build because it consistently outperforms other materials through Minnesota's toughest seasons—with cable and glass available when the view calls for it.

TimberTech and Trex are the two biggest names in composite and PVC decking, and both significantly outperform wood in durability and maintenance.

The short answer: Trex tends to win on price and brand recognition, while TimberTech tends to win on aesthetics, heat performance, and long-term durability—especially in harsh climates like Minnesota.

Material Composition
• Trex: Primarily wood-plastic composite (WPC) made from recycled wood fibers and plastic, capped on three sides
• TimberTech: Offers both capped composite lines and a full Advanced PVC lineup (Vintage, Landmark, Harvest) capped on four sides for superior moisture protection

Aesthetics
• Trex: Cleaner, more uniform grain pattern with embossing that can repeat across larger decks
• TimberTech: Deeper, more varied wood-grain embossing with multi-tonal streaking that more closely mimics real hardwood, especially in the Landmark and Reserve collections

Durability & Climate Performance
• Trex: Strong scratch resistance and a proven 25+ year track record
• TimberTech: Better UV and fade resistance, a four-sided moisture barrier on PVC lines, and cooler surface temperatures in direct sun—all meaningful advantages through Minnesota's freeze-thaw cycles and summer heat

Warranty
• Trex: 25-year limited residential fade and stain warranty on most lines
• TimberTech: Lifetime limited product warranty plus a 50-year fade and stain warranty on Advanced PVC lines

Pricing
• Trex: Generally lower entry price, especially in the Enhance and Select lines
• TimberTech: Higher upfront cost, but stronger long-term value and resale recovery

Bottom line
Both brands will outlast a wood deck by decades. If you're building on a tighter budget, Trex delivers solid value. If you're investing in a long-term outdoor living space and want the best aesthetics, climate resilience, and warranty coverage, TimberTech is the stronger choice.

At Lakeside Decking, we build with TimberTech as our standard because it consistently outperforms in Minnesota's climate—but we're happy to walk you through every option so the material matches the vision.

Yes—composite decking can be installed in winter, and it’s a common practice in climates like Minnesota.

Modern composite and PVC decking materials are designed to handle cold temperatures during installation, but there are a few important considerations.
• Material behavior in cold weather: Composite boards can become slightly more rigid in colder temperatures, so proper handling and spacing are important during installation.
• Expansion and contraction: Decking materials expand and contract with temperature changes. In winter, boards are installed with spacing that accounts for expansion in warmer months.
• Ground conditions: Frozen ground can actually make excavation and access more predictable, especially for footings and site work.

Winter advantages:
• Faster scheduling and availability
• Less disruption to landscaping
• Projects are ready to enjoy in spring

Bottom line:
Composite decking can be safely and effectively installed in winter when done correctly.

We build year-round and adjust our process for cold-weather conditions, so quality and performance are never compromised.

The right deck size depends on how you plan to use the space, but most decks fall into small, medium, or large categories based on functionality.

Small decks (100–200 sq ft)
Best for simple use like:
• A grill and a couple chairs
• A small seating area
• Basic access off the house

These are great for tighter yards or secondary outdoor spaces.

Medium decks (200–400 sq ft)
The most common size, offering space for:
• Outdoor dining table
• Grill or cooking area
• Lounge seating

This size works well for homeowners who want a functional, everyday outdoor space.

Large decks (400+ sq ft)
Designed for full outdoor living:
• Multiple zones (dining, lounging, cooking)
• Room for features like pergolas or fire tables
• Space to entertain larger groups

These are often more custom and built around how the space will be used.

What else to consider:
• Yard size and layout
• Door locations and traffic flow
• Budget and long-term goals
• How many people you typically entertain

Bottom line:
The best deck size isn’t just about square footage—it’s about how the space functions.

We design decks around how our clients actually live and use their space, so the layout feels intentional and not over- or under-built.

The most popular deck layout today is a single-level rectangular deck with defined zones for dining, lounging, and cooking.

This layout works well because it’s:
• Efficient to build
• Cost-effective
• Easy to furnish and use

Even within a simple shape, most decks are now designed with intentional zones, such as:
• Dining area near the door
• Lounge seating area
• Grill or outdoor kitchen space

This creates a more functional and comfortable outdoor living experience.

Other popular layouts:
• Multi-level decks: Great for sloped yards or separating spaces, but more complex and higher cost.
• Wraparound or L-shaped decks: Used to follow the shape of the home and maximize usable space.
• Decks with integrated features: Layouts that incorporate pergolas, stairs, or privacy walls as part of the design.

Bottom line:
Simple layouts are still the most popular, but the key is how the space is designed and used, not just the shape.

We focus on creating layouts that feel natural to move through and use—so the space works just as well in real life as it does on paper.

Yes - multi-level decks are very common and a great way to create a more functional and dynamic outdoor space.

They’re especially useful for:
• Sloped yards
• Walkout basements
• Separating different activity areas

What makes multi-level decks appealing:
• Defined spaces: Each level can serve a purpose—like dining, lounging, or a hot tub area.
• Better flow: Breaking up the space can make large decks feel more natural and easier to use.
• Improved integration with the home: Multiple levels can align with door heights, grade changes, or landscape features.

Things to consider:
• More complex design and framing
• Additional stairs and railings
• Higher overall cost than a single-level deck

Bottom line:
Multi-level decks are absolutely possible and often ideal for certain properties.

We use them strategically to match the home and landscape, so each level feels intentional—not just added complexity.

The Sycamore Project in our portfolio is a great example of a multi-level deck!

Deck stairs are typically 36 to 48 inches wide, but the right width depends on how the space will be used.

Code requirements: 
The minimum required width for residential deck stairs is 36 inches, measured clear between handrails.

What works best in practice:

36 inches (minimum)
• Meets code
• Works for basic access
• Feels tight for frequent use

42–48 inches (most common)
• More comfortable for everyday use
• Easier for two people to pass
• Better for carrying items like furniture or grills

60+ inches (wide / feature stairs)
• Creates a more open, welcoming feel
• Works well for entertaining spaces
• Often used as a design feature with landings or multiple access points

Other factors to consider
• Traffic flow from the house to the yard
• Size of the deck and yard
• Whether stairs are a primary entry/exit point
• Integration with railings and landings

Bottom line:
While 36 inches meets code, most homeowners prefer wider stairs for comfort and usability.

We typically design stairs as part of the overall layout, so they feel natural to use and proportionate to the space—not just sized to meet minimum requirements.

Picture frame borders are a design detail where decking boards are installed around the perimeter of the deck, creating a framed edge—similar to a picture frame. 

Instead of all boards running the same direction, a border board (or multiple boards) is installed perpendicular to the main decking, outlining the deck. These boards can match the field decking color, or it can be a contrasting color for more interest. 

Why homeowners choose picture framing
• Finished, high-end look: It creates a clean, defined edge that makes the deck look more polished and intentional.
• Hides cut ends: The border covers exposed board ends, improving the overall appearance.
• Design flexibility: Borders can be used to frame the entire deck, highlight stairs or landings, and create section breaks or inlays.

Things to consider:
• Requires more precise framing and planning
• Adds some additional material and labor cost
• Needs proper spacing to allow for expansion and contraction

Bottom line:
Picture frame borders are a simple upgrade that adds a clean, high-end finish to a deck.

We include picture frames in many of our designs because they elevate the overall look without drastically changing the structure.

The best deck designs for entertaining focus on creating multiple functional spaces so people can gather, move, and relax comfortably.

Instead of one large open area, the goal is to create a layout that feels intentional and easy to use.

Popular design ideas for entertaining:
• Defined zones: Separate areas for dining, lounge seating, and grilling or cooking. This helps the space feel organized and usable, even with a group.
•Built-in or flexible seating: Bench seating or well-planned furniture layouts can maximize space and make hosting easier.
• Wide stairs or multiple access points: Creates better flow between the deck and yard, especially during gatherings.
• Shade and coverage: Pergolas or covered areas make the space usable throughout the day and in different weather conditions.
• Lighting: Post lights, stair lights, and accent lighting extend the usability of the deck into the evening.

Other features that elevate entertaining: 
• Drink rails or bar areas
• Fire tables or fire features for ambience and warmth
• Integrated planters or privacy walls

Bottom line:
The best entertaining decks are designed around how people actually gather and move, not just square footage.

We design these spaces with real use in mind, so everything—from layout to features—works together during everyday use and larger gatherings.

Yes—a deck can absolutely be built around a hot tub, and it’s a popular way to create a more integrated and functional outdoor space.

Common design approaches:
• Flush or partially recessed: The hot tub is set into the deck so the top is level or slightly above the surface, making it easier to get in and out.
• Platform-style: The hot tub sits on top of the deck with steps or a surrounding seating area.
• Dedicated zone: The hot tub is placed in its own section of the deck, often with privacy walls, pergolas, or lighting.

Key considerations: 
• Structural support: Hot tubs are extremely heavy when filled with water and people. The framing must be specifically engineered to handle the load.
• Access for service: Panels or access points need to be built in so the hot tub can be maintained or repaired.
• Moisture management: Proper spacing, airflow, and drainage are important to prevent long-term moisture issues.

Bottom line:
Yes, a deck can be designed around a hot tub, but it needs to be planned carefully to ensure safety, longevity, and ease of use.

We design these setups with structure and access in mind from the start, so the space looks great and functions properly long-term.

A screened-in porch is a covered outdoor space designed to provide protection from bugs and light weather while still feeling open to the outdoors. Instead of solid walls, it uses screen panels—and in some cases vinyl window systems or sliding glass wall panels—to allow airflow while adding comfort and flexibility.

Similarly, many people ask What is a three-season porch?

A three-season porch is similar in structure but offers more protection and usability throughout the year.

These spaces often include:
• Screens and/or vinyl windows
• Optional heaters and ceiling fans
• More enclosure from wind and rain

While not fully insulated, three-season porches can be comfortably used spring through fall—and even into colder months with added heat.

We also get asked, How are these different from a four-season porch or home addition?

The main difference comes down to insulation, HVAC, and year-round use.

Screened-in / Three-season porch (what we DO build):
• Not fully insulated
• No integrated HVAC system
• Open-air or semi-enclosed design
• Best for seasonal use with optional heating and cooling features

Four-season porch / home addition (what we DON'T build):
• Fully insulated with traditional windows
• Connected to the home’s HVAC system
• Designed for true year-round living
• Built more like an interior space than an outdoor one

Bottom line:
Screened-in and three-season porches offer a comfortable, flexible outdoor space without the cost and complexity of a full addition.

We design these spaces to maximize usability with features like vinyl windows, heaters, and fans—so you can enjoy them well beyond just the summer months.

A screened-in porch in the Twin Cities West Metro typically ranges from $75,000 to $250,000+, depending on size, roof structure, foundation type, and the level of finish inside. Screened porches are significantly more expensive than open decks because they include a roof, walls, foundation, and often electrical, lighting, and finished ceilings.

Typical Budget Ranges by Project Type
• Standard screened porch ($75,000 – $125,000): A well-built porch with a shingled gable or shed roof, retractable or fixed screens, aluminum railing, low-maintenance flooring (TimberTech as allowed by municipality), and basic lighting
• Mid-range screened porch ($125,000 – $180,000): Larger footprint, vaulted tongue-and-groove ceiling, upgraded lighting, ceiling fans, stained wood beams, and integrated outlets
• Premium three-season porch ($180,000 – $250,000+): Full design-build with stone fireplace, outdoor kitchen integration, heated flooring, upgraded windows or Eze-Breeze panels, and custom millwork

Key Factors That Affect Porch Cost
• Roof structure: Shed roofs are most affordable; gable, hip, and cathedral designs add engineering and framing cost
• Screen system: Fixed screens are standard; retractable motorized screens are a significant upgrade
• Foundation: Ground screws, frost footings, or a full concrete foundation for year-round use
• Ceiling finish: Exposed framing vs. tongue-and-groove cedar or pine vs. fully finished drywall
• Flooring: TimberTech decking vs. tile, stone, or hardwood for enclosed builds
• Electrical scope: Lighting, ceiling fans, outlets, TV mounts, and switches
• Fireplace and heating: Gas fireplaces, infrared heaters, or in-floor heat extend the usable season
• Integration with existing home: Matching siding, roofline, and trim to your house is critical for a seamless look

Three-Season vs. Four-Season Porches
Three-season: Screened walls, vinyl windows, radiant electric heaters, used roughly April through October in Minnesota
Four-season: Fully insulated, windowed, and heated; functions as conditioned living space year-round and costs significantly more. Lakeside Decking does NOT offer four-season porches. 

Bottom line
A screened porch is one of the highest-value additions you can make to a Minnesota home—extending your usable outdoor season, protecting you from mosquitoes, and adding genuine square footage to how you live. Budget for the build that matches how you want to use the space, not just the smallest number that gets you under a roof.

At Lakeside Decking, we design every screened porch as a true extension of your home—matching rooflines, trim, and finishes so it looks like it was always meant to be there.

In many cases, the terms screened-in porch and three-season porch are used interchangeably, especially for modern outdoor living spaces. Both are designed to create a covered, comfortable outdoor area that protects from bugs and the elements while still maintaining an open-air feel.

What they have in common: 
• Covered roof structure
• Open or semi-enclosed walls
• Protection from bugs, wind, and light weather
• Designed for seasonal use rather than full-time living

Most projects today include a combination of:
• Screens
• Vinyl windows
• Sliding glass wall panels

These features allow the space to be adjusted based on weather and preference—opening it up on nice days and closing it in when conditions aren’t ideal.

Traditionally, a “three-season porch” refers to a space that is more enclosed and usable for a longer portion of the year, often with added features like heaters or fans. But in practice, the line between the two has become very blurred.

Bottom line:
Both screened-in and three-season porches offer a flexible, comfortable outdoor space that extends how you use your home.

We design these spaces with adjustable features—like vinyl windows and sliding glass panels—so they can adapt to changing weather and be enjoyed across multiple seasons.

In theory, yes—but in practice, not always.

Whether an existing deck can be converted depends on how it was originally built and whether it can support the additional weight and structural requirements of a roof and enclosure.

Screened-in and three-season porches require heavier loads, including a roof system and wall framing. In Minnesota, footings must meet frost-depth requirements (around 60” deep) and be sized to handle that added weight.

Many standard decks are not built with this in mind, which means:
• Footings may be undersized or too shallow
• Framing may not support a roof load
• Structural upgrades may be required

Other considerations
• Beam and post sizing
• Connection to the house
• Permits and code compliance
• Integration of windows, screens, or panels

Some decks can be modified, but in many cases, it’s more efficient—and safer—to rebuild or partially rebuild the structure to properly support the porch.

Bottom line:
Conversion is possible, but it depends heavily on the existing structure.

We evaluate each project individually and design the solution the right way from the start—so the finished space is safe, durable, and built to last.

Yes—screened-in and three-season porches can add meaningful value to a home, both financially and in how the space is used.

Increased usable living space
These porches create a functional extension of the home, giving homeowners more room for dining, relaxing, and entertaining—without the cost of a full addition.

Buyer appeal
Low-maintenance, well-designed outdoor spaces are highly desirable, especially in Minnesota where homeowners want to maximize seasonal use.

Cost vs. value
While they don’t typically add value dollar-for-dollar like a full interior addition, they often provide a strong return in usability and marketability, helping a home stand out.

Lifestyle value
For many homeowners, the biggest benefit is how often the space gets used—creating a place to enjoy the outdoors with more comfort and flexibility.

Bottom line:
Screened-in and three-season porches add value by expanding how a home is lived in and experienced.

We design these spaces to feel like a natural extension of the home, which helps maximize both everyday use and long-term appeal.

The best materials for a Minnesota screened porch combine low-maintenance durability, freeze-thaw resilience, and a finished aesthetic that matches your home. Because porches endure the same weather extremes as decks—plus wind-driven rain, pollen, and snow load on the roof—material choices matter even more than on an open deck.

Flooring
• TimberTech decking: The gold standard for porch flooring. Won't rot, splinter, or absorb moisture from blowing rain and snow
• Porcelain tile or stone: Premium option with a concrete substrate; beautiful but significantly more expensive and best suited to specific designs

Framing & Exterior Finish
• LP SmartSide trim and soffit: Engineered wood with excellent durability, paintability, and a clean finished look that matches most Minnesota homes
• James Hardie fiber cement siding: Premium, non-combustible siding that holds paint exceptionally well and stands up to Minnesota's freeze-thaw cycles
• Cedar beams and posts – Warm, natural, and rot-resistant when properly sealed; ideal for exposed structural elements
• Pressure-treated structural framing – Standard for load-bearing framing hidden within walls and roof systems

Ceilings
• AZEK Alpine porch ceiling: Low-maintenance PVC tongue-and-groove that looks like painted wood without the cracking, peeling, or repainting
• Tongue-and-groove cedar or pine: Traditional, warm, and beautiful; pairs well with exposed beams but requires periodic sealing

Roofing
• Asphalt shingles: Most common and cost-effective; should match your existing home's roofline
• Standing seam metal: Premium upgrade with superior longevity and a modern or farmhouse aesthetic

Screen & Window Systems
• Fixed screens: Standard, affordable, and effective
• Retractable motorized screens: Premium upgrade that opens the porch fully when you want airflow and views, then closes to block bugs and wind
• Vinyl four-track windows: A great mid-tier upgrade that lets you stack and slide panels for airflow or weather protection, extending the usable season
• Lumon retractable glass wall panels: Premium frameless glass walls that fully open the porch in summer and close seamlessly to block wind, rain, and shoulder-season cold

Railing
• Powder-coated aluminum: Same gold-standard choice as open decks; handles Minnesota winters without rust or maintenance
• Cable railing: Ideal for lakefront porches where preserving the view is the priority

Footings
• Helical pile footings: The best option for screened porches in Minnesota. Helicals drive below frost depth, deliver engineered load capacity, install quickly with minimal site disruption, and perform reliably in our clay and variable soil conditions—where traditional concrete footings often struggle with frost heave and long cure times

Bottom line
The best screened porch materials are the ones that handle Minnesota's climate without constant upkeep—and that look like a natural extension of your home rather than a bolted-on addition. TimberTech flooring, LP SmartSide or Hardie siding, an AZEK Alpine ceiling, aluminum railing, and helical pile footings deliver the best combination of durability, aesthetics, and long-term value.

At Lakeside Decking, we specify every porch material with Minnesota's climate and your home's architecture in mind—so the final build performs for decades and looks like it belongs.

Yes—but with some limitations.

Screened-in and three-season porches are not designed for full winter use like a heated addition, but they can still be used during colder months with the right setup.

What makes winter use possible:
• Enclosure options: Features like vinyl windows or sliding glass panels help block wind and retain some warmth, making the space more comfortable than a fully open deck.
• Supplemental heat: Adding outdoor-rated heaters can extend usability into colder temperatures, especially on milder winter days.
• Sun exposure: South- or west-facing porches can naturally warm up during sunny winter days.

What to expect
• Not fully insulated
• No central HVAC system
• Best for occasional winter use, not daily living

On very cold days, the space will still feel like an outdoor environment—just more protected.

Bottom line:
Screened-in and three-season porches can be enjoyed in winter, but they’re best suited for extended seasonal use rather than full-time winter living.

We design these spaces with features like windows and heaters to maximize comfort, so you can use them well beyond just the summer months.

Yes—screened-in and three-season porches require a building permit in Minnesota.

These structures are considered additions to the home, even if they are not fully insulated or conditioned spaces.

Porches involve structural elements like:
• Footings and foundations
• Roof systems
• Posts, beams, and framing

Because of this, they must meet Minnesota State Building Code and local zoning requirements for safety, setbacks, and structural integrity.

What’s typically required for a permit: 
• Site plan showing location and setbacks
• Structural plans (footings, framing, roof)
• Material specifications
• Additional permits for electrical or heaters (if applicable)

Are there any exceptions?
Unlike some ground-level decks, porches and enclosed structures almost always require a permit, regardless of size or height.

Bottom line:
Yes—permits are required for screened-in and three-season porches in Minnesota.

We handle the permitting process as part of our projects, ensuring everything is designed and built to meet local code from the start.

The best screens for a Minnesota porch balance durability, visibility, easy replacement, and resistance to wind, debris, and pet damage. Because our porches take a beating from everything from summer storms to fall leaves to curious dogs, the screen system you choose matters as much as the screen material itself.

Screen Systems We Install
• Screen-eze: A sleek, low-profile aluminum framing system that captures the screen between two channels, creating a clean, finished look with no visible staples or battens. Screens can be replaced panel-by-panel without tearing apart trim, which is a major long-term advantage
• Universal Screens:  A premium motorized retractable screen system that rolls screens up and down at the push of a button, fully opening the porch when you want unobstructed views and airflow. Ideal for lakefront properties and homeowners who want maximum flexibility between screened and open porch modes

Screen Mesh Options
• Fiberglass mesh: The standard choice. Affordable, good visibility, and easy to replace. Best for most porches without heavy pet or wildlife exposure
• Aluminum mesh: More durable and rigid than fiberglass; holds up better to wind but slightly reduces visibility
• Pet-resistant mesh: Heavy-duty polyester specifically designed to resist tearing from dogs and cats. Worth the upgrade if pets use the porch regularly
• No-see-um mesh: Tighter weave that blocks smaller insects like gnats and no-see-ums, which are common near Minnesota lakes and wooded lots. Slightly reduces airflow and visibility but eliminates the tiniest pests
• Solar screen mesh: Reduces UV and heat gain while still allowing airflow; ideal for west-facing porches that get intense afternoon sun

Key Factors to Consider
• Location: Lakefront and wooded lots benefit from no-see-um mesh; sunny exposures benefit from solar screens
• Pets: Dogs and cats can shred standard fiberglass in a single season; upgrade to pet-resistant mesh if needed
• Flexibility: Retractable systems like Universal Screens let you open the porch entirely; fixed systems like Screen-eze are simpler and more affordable
• Aesthetics: Screen-eze creates the cleanest finished look for fixed installations; retractables disappear entirely when raised
• Maintenance & replacement: Panel-based systems like Screen-eze make future screen replacement far easier than traditional stapled or battened screens

Bottom line
For most Minnesota porches, Screen-eze offers the best combination of clean aesthetics, long-term durability, and easy maintenance. For homeowners who want the flexibility to open their porch completely—especially on lakefront properties—Universal Screens' retractable system is the premium choice.

At Lakeside Decking, we install both Screen-eze and Universal Screens because each has a place depending on how you want to use your porch—and we'll help you choose the system that fits your site, your style, and how you live outside.

Screened-in and three-season porches can be customized in a variety of ways to match how you want to use the space. The goal is to create a space that feels like a natural extension of your home—not just a covered area.

Enclosure options:
• Screens for airflow
• Vinyl windows or sliding glass panels for added protection
• These allow the space to open up or close in depending on weather

Lighting and electrical: 
• Ceiling lights, sconces, or accent lighting
• Outlets for TVs, heaters, or devices

Heating and cooling: 
• Outdoor-rated heaters for colder months
• Ceiling fans for airflow in the summer

Ceiling and finishes: 
• Tongue-and-groove wood or composite ceilings
• Painted or stained finishes to match the home

Privacy and design features: 
• Privacy walls or decorative panels
• Integrated railings or knee walls

Other upgrades to consider: 
• Flooring options (composite decking, tile, etc.)
• Built-in seating or storage
• Integration with decks, patios, or stairs

Bottom line:
Screened-in porches are highly customizable and can be tailored to fit both your style and how you plan to use the space.

We design these spaces around each client’s lifestyle, so every feature—from windows to lighting—serves a purpose and feels intentional.

A louvered pergola is a modern outdoor structure with adjustable slats (louvers) in the roof that can open and close to control sun, shade, and rain.

Unlike a traditional pergola, which has fixed slats, a louvered system allows you to adapt the space in real time based on weather and comfort.

The louvers can be adjusted—either motorized (remote or app-controlled) or manually with a crank—to:
• Let in full sunlight
• Create partial shade
• Fully close to block rain

When closed, most systems are designed to channel water into built-in gutters, keeping the space below dry.

How is it different from a traditional pergola?

Traditional pergola (static)
• Fixed slats
• Provides partial shade only
• No rain protection

Louvered pergola (adjustable)
• Adjustable roof (motorized or manual)
• Full control over sun and shade
• Can provide rain protection when closed

Why homeowners choose louvered pergolas
• Greater flexibility throughout the day
• Usable in more weather conditions
• More functional than a standard pergola

Bottom line:
A louvered pergola offers a much higher level of control and usability compared to a traditional pergola.

We design these systems to create a space that can adapt to changing conditions—so it’s comfortable whether it’s sunny, cloudy, or raining.

A louvered pergola offers significantly more flexibility and functionality than a traditional pergola, making it a more versatile outdoor structure.

Full control over sun and shade
Adjustable louvers allow you to go from full sun to full shade in seconds, instead of being locked into a fixed amount of coverage.

Rain protection
When closed, louvered systems can block rain and channel water away, allowing the space to stay usable in wet conditions—something traditional pergolas can’t provide.

Longer seasonal use
With the ability to control sunlight, airflow, and weather exposure, louvered pergolas make the space usable across more months of the year.

Better integration with upgrades
Louvered systems are designed to work with features like:
• Lighting
• Heaters
• Screens

This allows the space to function more like an outdoor room.

Modern design and performance
They offer a clean, architectural look with materials built for long-term durability and low maintenance.

Bottom line:
While traditional pergolas provide basic shade, louvered pergolas offer full control, weather protection, and greater usability, making them a more functional long-term investment.

We typically recommend them for homeowners who want their outdoor space to adapt to how they actually use it throughout the day and across seasons.

In theory, yes—but in practice, it depends on how the deck was originally built.

Just like screened-in or three-season porches, adding a pergola introduces additional structural load, especially with larger or motorized systems like louvered pergolas.

Pergolas—particularly attached or louvered systems—require solid support. In Minnesota, that means:
• Footings at proper frost depth
• Framing designed to handle additional weight and wind loads

Many existing decks were not built with this in mind.

What needs to be evaluated
• Footing size and depth
• Beam and post capacity
• How the pergola will attach to the structure
• Overall deck condition and age

Some decks can support a pergola with minor modifications, but others may require reinforcement or rebuilding to do it correctly.

Bottom line:
Yes, a pergola can often be added to an existing deck—but it needs to be evaluated structurally first.

We approach these projects the same way we do porch conversions—making sure the structure is properly designed to support it long-term, not just added on after the fact.

Louvered pergolas are designed with built-in drainage systems that allow them to shed water when the roof is closed.

When the louvers are fully closed, they form a solid surface that directs rainwater into integrated channels within the structure.

From there, water is routed into:
• Built-in gutters
• Internal posts or downspouts

This keeps water flowing away from the space below.

What to expect in real conditions: 
• Light to moderate rain is typically handled very well
• The area underneath stays mostly dry when the louvers are fully closed
• In heavy wind-driven rain, some minor moisture intrusion is possible

This drainage system is what allows a louvered pergola to function more like a roofed structure, making the space usable even during rain.

Bottom line:
Louvered pergolas are engineered to capture and redirect water, allowing you to stay outside even when it rains.

We design these systems with proper drainage integration so they perform reliably and keep the space below as dry and usable as possible.

Adjustable louvers can block anywhere from partial sunlight to nearly 100% of direct sun, depending on their position.

The louvers rotate to control how much light enters the space:
• Fully open: lets in maximum sunlight
• Partially open: creates filtered light and partial shade
• Fully closed: blocks direct sunlight almost entirely

When closed, most systems create a solid surface that provides full shade and UV protection.

What about indirect light?
Even when closed, some ambient light may still enter from the sides, so the space won’t feel completely dark—but direct overhead sun is effectively blocked.

For additional shade and privacy, many systems can include:
• Retractable screens or shade panels
• Drop-down enclosures on the sides

These can significantly reduce low-angle sun (morning/evening) and increase overall comfort.

Bottom line:
Adjustable louvers give you full control over overhead sunlight, from open sky to full shade.

When paired with retractable shades, the space can be tuned even further to stay comfortable throughout the day.

Most louvered pergolas are made from aluminum, which offers the best combination of strength, durability, and low maintenance for outdoor use.

Aluminum (most common)
• Lightweight but structurally strong
• Rust- and corrosion-resistant
• Holds up well in moisture and freeze-thaw conditions
• Typically finished with a powder-coated coating for long-term color and durability

This is the standard for high-quality systems like StruXure.

Steel (less common)
• Extremely strong and rigid
• Heavier and more prone to corrosion if not properly protected
• Used in some structural applications, but less common for full systems

In addition to the metal frame and louvers, systems often include:
• Integrated gutters and drainage channels
• Motorized components (for adjustable louvers)
• Optional screens, lighting, and accessories

Because of exposure to snow, rain, and temperature swings, materials need to resist corrosion, movement, and long-term wear—making aluminum the most reliable choice.

Bottom line:
Aluminum is the preferred material for louvered pergolas due to its durability, low maintenance, and performance in harsh climates.

We focus on high-quality systems that are built to hold up long-term, not just look good initially.

Yes—but only if it is properly engineered for the local snow load.

Not all pergolas are built the same, and in Minnesota, snow load is a major structural consideration. Minnesota’s code guidance says porches and similar roofed structures must be designed for the local snow load requirements, and the state snow-load map shows much of the Twin Cities metro in the 50 psf ground snow load zone, which corresponds to about 35 psf roof snow load under the residential code formula.

That’s why the key question isn’t just whether a pergola is “louvered,” but whether it’s built to handle the weight of snow in your specific area. In Minnesota, snow can get very heavy, so the pergola needs to be designed based on how much weight it might realistically have sitting on it at one time. Some systems are engineered for lighter conditions, while others are specifically built to handle heavier snow loads—so it’s important to match the structure to the environment, not just the style.

It’s also important to understand that snow management still matters. StruXure recommends removing buildup after heavy snow, and notes that adjusting the louvers can help shed snow and reduce excess weight on the structure.

Bottom line:
Yes, a louvered pergola can absolutely work in Minnesota—but it needs to be designed and engineered for the site-specific snow load, not treated like a one-size-fits-all kit.

We approach these projects with the same mindset as porch structures: proper engineering first, so the system performs safely and reliably through Minnesota winters.

Most louvered pergolas are designed to be highly customizable, with a range of add-ons that improve comfort, usability, and how the space functions day-to-day.

Common accessories across most louvered pergolas
• Screens and shade panels: Retractable screens for sun, wind, and bug protection. Helps block low-angle sun and add privacy. 
• Lighting: Integrated LED lighting for evening use. Often dimmable or app-controlled. 
• Heaters and fans: Extend the season in both cooler and hotter weather. Improve overall comfort throughout the day. 
• Smart controls: Remote or app-based control for louvers, lighting, and screens. Some systems include weather sensors that automatically adjust to rain or wind

Where systems like StruXure stand out is in the design flexibility and how the structure can be built around the home, not just added to it. 

StruXure-specific design and customization options
• Pivot (louvered) and Pan (static) roof systems: can be combined within the same structure for a more tailored layout
• TraX system: Allows lighting, screens, and other components to be integrated cleanly into the structure. Keeps wiring and components hidden for a more finished look. 
• Custom colors and woodgrain finishes: Standard colors plus thousands of custom options. Woodgrain finishes available to better match the home’s aesthetic. 
• Architectural upgrades: Design elements like covers, collars, and beam details to match the home. Ability to tie into rooflines, pitches, and overall architecture. 
• Pivot Slide: Advanced roof option where sections of the roof can fully retract for open sky. 

Bottom line:
Louvered pergolas can be customized with everything from basic comfort features to fully integrated systems.

What makes systems like StruXure different is the ability to design the structure around the home and lifestyle—so it feels intentional, not like an add-on.

Yes—a louvered pergola can increase home value, especially when it’s well-designed and integrated into the overall outdoor space.

Creates usable outdoor living space
Pergolas turn a basic deck or patio into a functional area for dining, relaxing, and entertaining—which is something buyers actively look for.

Improves buyer appeal
Outdoor living features are in high demand. Homes with pergolas have been shown to sell faster and even for slightly higher prices in some markets.

Strong return on investment (ROI)
Most pergola projects see a return of roughly 50–80% of their cost, depending on design, materials, and location.
Well-designed outdoor living spaces can sometimes perform even better, especially when they feel like a true extension of the home.

What impacts the value most
• How well it integrates with the home and layout
• Quality of materials (low-maintenance, durable systems perform better)
• Features like adjustable louvers, lighting, and screens
• Proper permitting and professional installation

Bottom line:
Yes, a louvered pergola can add value—but more importantly, it makes your home more usable, more attractive, and easier to sell.

We design these as part of a complete outdoor living space, which is where they tend to have the biggest impact—not just as a standalone feature.

StruXure is generally considered one of the more flexible and design-focused louvered pergola systems, but the right option depends on priorities like budget, features, and how the space will be used.

Design flexibility
StruXure systems can be highly customized—combining louvered (Pivot) and solid (Pan) sections, integrating accessories cleanly, and tailoring the structure to match the home. This level of customization is more limited in many other systems.

Integrated system approach
Features like the TraX beam system allow lighting, screens, and heaters to be built directly into the structure, rather than added on later. This creates a cleaner, more finished result.

Smart features and automation
StruXure is known for its tech-forward design, including app control, weather sensors, and smart home integration.

Material and durability
Most StruXure systems use extruded aluminum with powder coating, which resists rust, rot, and long-term wear better than wood or lower-grade materials.

In comparison: Other louvered pergola brands
• Often offer similar core functionality (adjustable louvers, rain protection)
• May have fewer customization options or simpler accessory integration
• Can vary widely in warranty, engineering, and available features

In comparison: Lower-cost or kit systems
• Typically less engineered for harsh climates
• Fewer features and less automation
• May require more maintenance or have shorter lifespans

The biggest differences between StruXure and other systems usually come down to:
• Level of customization
• Structural engineering (snow/wind load)
• Integration of accessories
• Long-term durability and support

Bottom line:
StruXure stands out for its customization, integration, and smart features, making it a strong option for homeowners who want a fully designed outdoor living space—not just a standalone structure.

We typically recommend it when the goal is to create something that feels intentional and tied into the home, rather than a one-size-fits-all pergola.

StruXure pergolas are fully custom systems, so pricing can vary quite a bit—but most projects fall into a predictable range based on size and features.

Typical cost range
$150–$200 per square foot installed
$30,000–$60,000+ for most projects

For example:
~12’x16’: around $30k–$45k
~12’x20’: around $36k–$48k

StruXure systems are not one-size-fits-all—they’re designed specifically for each space.

Cost is influenced by:
• Size and layout of the pergola
• Number of bays or spans
• Accessories (screens, lighting, heaters, etc.)
• Custom colors or woodgrain finishes
• Site conditions and installation complexity

Because of this, there isn’t a flat price—you’re really pricing out a custom outdoor structure, not a kit.

A helpful way to frame it:
• Basic pergolas = simple shade structures
• StruXure = a fully functional outdoor room with a controllable roof

That added functionality, engineering, and customization is what drives the cost.

Bottom line:
Most StruXure pergolas land somewhere in the $30k–$60k+ range depending on size and features.

We design these as part of a complete outdoor space, so the final investment reflects not just the structure—but how it integrates with the home and how you’ll actually use it.

StruXure pergolas are primarily made from high-grade extruded aluminum, along with a few supporting materials that enhance strength, durability, and performance.

Main structural material: aluminum
• Pergola frame (posts and beams)
• Made from fully extruded aluminum components
• Lightweight but extremely strong and rigid
• Naturally resistant to rust and corrosion
• Holds up well in moisture, snow, and freeze-thaw conditions

Most systems also feature a powder-coated finish, which adds an extra layer of protection against weather, fading, and wear over time. 

Louvers (the adjustable roof)
• Also made from powder-coated aluminum
• Designed to interlock when closed for rain protection
• Built to resist warping, pests, and long-term wear

Hardware and internal components
• Stainless steel fasteners for strength and corrosion resistance
• Integrated motors and smart components (for motorized systems)
• Built-in drainage systems within the aluminum frame

Why this matters (especially in Minnesota)
Aluminum doesn’t rot, warp, or rust like wood or steel, making it ideal for handling snow, moisture, and temperature swings without ongoing maintenance.

Bottom line:
StruXure pergolas are built almost entirely from powder-coated aluminum with stainless steel components, giving them long-term durability and low maintenance.

We like these systems because they’re engineered to perform in tough climates—not just look good when they’re first installed.

StruXure pergolas are fully customizable, so there isn’t a fixed list of standard sizes like you’d see with a kit product. They’re designed to fit your space—whether that’s a small patio or a large multi-zone outdoor area.

Instead of thinking in “standard sizes,” StruXure systems are built using bays (sections) that can be combined:
• Each section is engineered to span a certain distance
• For example, some systems can span up to 16 feet without a mid-beam
• Multiple sections can be connected to create larger structures

This allows for everything from a simple single-bay pergola to a large, multi-zone layout.

Other sizing considerations
• Height is typically 8.5–12 feet, but can be adjusted based on design
• Shape can be rectangular, square, L-shaped, or fully custom
• Layout can combine Pivot (louvered) and Pan (solid) sections

Bottom line:
StruXure pergolas aren’t limited to standard sizes—they’re designed to fit your space.

We typically start with how you want to use the area, then design the size and layout around that, rather than forcing your project into a preset dimension.

Yes—StruXure pergolas can be installed as either attached or freestanding structures, depending on the design and your space.

Attached to the house
• Typically secured to the home’s structural framing (not just siding)
• Can tie into rooflines, fascia, or exterior walls
• Creates a more integrated, “built-in” look

This is one of the most popular options for patios and decks right off the house.

Installed on a deck
• Similar to screened-in and three-season porches, it depends on how the deck is built
• Posts are anchored into the structural framing, not just decking boards
• The deck may need additional reinforcement to support the load
• Footings and framing need to be evaluated, especially in Minnesota

Freestanding option
If attaching isn’t ideal, StruXure pergolas can also be built as fully freestanding structures anywhere in the yard.

What really matters
• Structural support
• Proper attachment methods
• Code compliance and permitting

Bottom line:
Yes—StruXure pergolas can be attached to a house or installed on a deck, but they need to be properly engineered for the structure they’re connecting to.

We approach these the same way we do porch or pergola additions—making sure everything is designed to integrate cleanly and perform long-term, not just look good on day one.

StruXure pergolas can be either motorized or manual, depending on the system and how you want to use the space.

Most StruXure pergolas are motorized, allowing you to control the louvers with:
• A remote
• A smartphone app
• Optional smart home or voice control

Some systems can also include weather sensors that automatically adjust the louvers when it starts to rain or gets too windy.

StruXure systems can also be operated manually, where the louvers are adjusted by hand to control airflow and sunlight. This is typically a simpler option with fewer integrated features.

How most homeowners decide
• Choose motorized if you want convenience, automation, and integration with lighting/screens
• Choose manual if you want a more basic system with fewer components

Bottom line:
StruXure pergolas can be either manual or motorized, but most homeowners opt for motorized systems for ease of use and added functionality.

We typically guide clients based on how they plan to use the space and what level of control they want day-to-day.

StruXure pergolas are designed with a fully integrated system that manages rain through a combination of sealed louvers, hidden drainage, and smart automation.

Louver seal (the first line of defense)
• When the louvers are fully closed, they interlock to create a watertight surface, preventing rain from passing through the roof
• The louvers are also shaped to channel water into specific paths, rather than letting it sit or drip through.
• Once water hits the closed louvers, it’s directed into a hidden, built-in gutter system inside the frame.

From there, the system:
• Moves water into perimeter gutters
• Routes it through internal downspouts inside the posts
• Deposits it safely at the base, away from the deck or patio

This keeps the entire drainage system concealed and controlled, so you don’t get dripping edges or overflow.

Rain and wind sensors (automatic response)
• StruXure systems can include weather sensors that automatically adjust the pergola when conditions change
• Rain sensors detect moisture and automatically close the louvers to keep the space dry
• Wind sensors can open the louvers in high winds to reduce pressure on the structure
• This means the system can respond even if you’re not home.

What to expect in real conditions
• Performs very well in typical rain
• Keeps the space below mostly dry when closed
• In heavy, wind-driven rain, some minor moisture is still possible (similar to any outdoor structure)

Bottom line:
StruXure pergolas handle rain through a combination of sealed louvers, hidden gutters, and smart automation, allowing them to function much more like a roof than a traditional pergola.

We design these systems to manage water properly from the start, so the space stays clean, dry, and usable even when the weather changes.

StruXure pergolas are designed to handle wind through a combination of structural engineering and smart automation, allowing the system to actively respond to changing conditions.

Wind sensors (automatic protection)
• StruXure systems can include wind sensors that monitor conditions in real time
• When wind speeds reach a certain level (typically around 60 mph - you likely won't be outside in this!), the system will automatically open the louvers
• This allows air to pass through the structure instead of pushing against it
• The goal is to reduce uplift and pressure on the pergola
• This happens automatically, so the system protects itself even if you’re not home.

Unlike a solid roof, louvered pergolas are designed to adapt to wind:
• Closed louvers = act more like a roof (not ideal in high wind)
• Open louvers = allow wind to pass through safely
• That’s why the system automatically opens in high wind—it’s not a failure, it’s a built-in safety feature

StruXure pergolas are built from extruded aluminum and engineered connections, and when properly installed, they can withstand very high wind speeds (often 130+ mph depending on design)

Performance depends on:
• Size and span
• Attachment method (house vs freestanding)
• Proper anchoring and installation

What to expect in real conditions
• Handles normal and moderate wind with no issue
• Automatically adjusts in stronger wind conditions
• Designed to remain stable and secure when properly engineered

Bottom line:
StruXure pergolas handle wind by working with it, not against it—using sensors to open the louvers and reduce pressure on the structure.

We design and install these systems with proper engineering and anchoring so they perform safely and reliably in Minnesota conditions.

StruXure pergolas are built to last decades, with most systems expected to perform for 20–30+ years with minimal maintenance.

Durable materials
StruXure systems are made from powder-coated aluminum, which doesn’t rot, warp, or rust like wood or steel—making it ideal for long-term outdoor use.

Engineered systems
They’re designed to handle real weather conditions (rain, wind, snow), which reduces long-term wear compared to simpler structures.

Low maintenance
Unlike wood pergolas that require staining or sealing, maintenance is typically limited to basic cleaning and occasional inspections.

StruXure offers a limited lifetime warranty, with:
~15 years on structural components (posts, beams, louvers)
~5 years on motors and electronics

This gives a good indication of how long the system is expected to perform.

How it compares to other materials
• Wood pergolas: ~5–15 years
• Vinyl pergolas: ~10–20 years
• Aluminum (like StruXure): 20–30+ years

Bottom line:
StruXure pergolas are designed as a long-term outdoor structure, not a temporary upgrade.

We position these as a “build it once, enjoy it for decades” type of investment—especially important in a climate like Minnesota where durability really matters.

StruXure pergolas are designed to be very low maintenance, especially compared to traditional wood structures.

Occasional cleaning
• Rinse with water and use a mild soap and soft brush to remove dirt or buildup
• No staining, sealing, or painting required

Clearing debris
• Remove leaves, twigs, or debris from the roof and louvers
• Keep gutters and drainage paths clear so water flows properly

Periodic inspection
• Check moving parts, fasteners, and (if applicable) motors
• Ensure everything is operating smoothly

What you don’t have to do
• No sanding, staining, or sealing like wood
• No concerns about rot, pests, or corrosion
• No major seasonal upkeep

For most homeowners, this means:
• Light cleaning a few times per year
• Quick seasonal checks to keep everything running properly

Bottom line:
StruXure pergolas require minimal maintenance—mainly basic cleaning and occasional checks.

We like these systems because they’re built to hold up long-term without the ongoing upkeep that comes with traditional materials.

StruXure pergolas are specifically designed to resist fading and corrosion, even in harsh outdoor conditions. StruXure uses a high-grade powder-coated finish that helps protect against UV damage and color fading over time.

Fade resistance (sun exposure)
• Designed to maintain color and appearance for years
• More resistant to fading than painted or stained surfaces
• Available in standard, custom, and woodgrain finishes that hold up long-term

Corrosion resistance (moisture and weather)
Because the structure is made from extruded aluminum and stainless steel components, it naturally resists:
• Rust
• Rot
• Moisture damage

Unlike steel or wood, aluminum won’t corrode or break down when exposed to rain, snow, or humidity.

Real-world performance
• Holds up well in freeze-thaw climates like Minnesota
• Performs in high moisture and sun exposure without degrading
• Requires no repainting or sealing to maintain appearance

Like any outdoor product, minor wear can happen over many years, but:
• Fading is minimal with proper materials
• Corrosion is not a typical concern with aluminum systems
• Regular cleaning helps maintain the original look

Bottom line:
StruXure pergolas are built to resist both fading and corrosion, thanks to their powder-coated aluminum construction.

We recommend them because they maintain their appearance and performance long-term—without the upkeep required by wood or lower-grade materials.

Both a StruXure pergola and a traditional roof cover can create a covered outdoor space—but they function very differently. The main difference comes down to flexibility vs. permanence.

StruXure (adjustable system)
• Louvers open and close to control sun, shade, and rain
• Can adapt throughout the day and across seasons
• Allows airflow and natural light when desired
• Feels more like an outdoor space you can control

Because of the adjustable roof, you’re not locked into one condition—you can have full sun, partial shade, or full coverage as needed.

Traditional roof (static cover)
• Fully covered at all times
• Provides complete and consistent rain protection
• Blocks sunlight permanently
• Feels more like a fixed extension of the home
• This is closer to a porch or addition-style structure.

Here are some of the key differences to consider: 

Flexibility
• StruXure: Adjustable in real time
• Roof: Fixed, no adjustability

Light and openness
• StruXure: Can open to let in sun and sky
• Roof: Always shaded and enclosed

Use case
• StruXure: Best for adaptable, outdoor living
• Roof: Best for full-time coverage and maximum protection

Structure and complexity
• Roof systems typically require more permanent construction and integration
• Pergolas are engineered structures but generally less invasive than a full roof addition

Which is better?
• Choose a roof structure if you want a fully covered, always-protected space
• Choose a StruXure pergola if you want a space that can adapt to weather, light, and how you use it throughout the day

Bottom line:
A traditional roof gives you consistent coverage, while a StruXure pergola gives you control and flexibility.

We typically recommend StruXure when homeowners want an outdoor space that can change with the weather—rather than being locked into one condition all the time.

In most cases, yes—you do need a permit to build a deck in Minnesota.

According to the Minnesota Residential Code, a permit is typically required if your deck:
• Is attached to your home
• Is 30 inches or more above the ground
• Includes stairs, guardrails, or structural footings

These conditions apply to the majority of decks built in the Twin Cities and surrounding areas.

Some smaller decks may be exempt, such as:
• Freestanding decks (not attached to the house)
• 30 inches or less above grade

However, even these must still meet zoning rules (setbacks, size, location) and building code requirements.

Important to know
• Rules can vary slightly by city (Minnetonka, Plymouth, Eden Prairie, etc.)
• Even if a permit isn’t required, inspections or zoning approval may still be needed
• Skipping a permit can lead to fines, delays, or issues when selling your home

Bottom line:
Most decks in Minnesota do require a permit, especially if they’re attached or elevated.

We handle permitting as part of our process to make sure everything is built to code and approved from the start.

In most cases, getting a deck permit in Minnesota takes about 1–3 weeks, depending on the city and the project.

Typical timelines
• Simple projects: as fast as a few days to 1 week
• Most decks: about 1–2 weeks
• More complex projects: up to 2–3+ weeks

Many cities in the Twin Cities West Metro aim for around 5–10 business days for residential permits, assuming everything is submitted correctly.

What affects the timeline
• City workload (spring/summer is busiest)
• Completeness of your plans
• Project complexity (size, stairs, roof structures, etc.)
• Alternative, innovative, or newer materials
• Zoning, hardcover, and/or setback reviews

How to avoid delays
• Submit clear, complete plans
• Include all required details (footings, framing, layout)
• Work with a contractor familiar with local permitting, like Lakeside Decking

Bottom line:
Most deck permits in Minnesota take 1–3 weeks, but can be faster or slower depending on the situation.

We handle permitting as part of our process and make sure everything is submitted correctly to keep approvals moving as quickly as possible.

If your home is part of an HOA, then yes—you typically need HOA approval before applying for a deck permit.

HOAs have their own rules around:
• Size and placement
• Materials and colors
• Overall design and appearance

Cities do not review or enforce HOA rules, so it’s up to the homeowner to get approval before moving forward with permits or construction.

How it works
1. Submit your deck plans to your HOA
2. Receive written approval
3. Then apply for your city building permit

Some cities may even ask for proof of HOA approval as part of the permit process.

Even if your deck is fully permitted by the city, your HOA can still:
• Require changes
• Issue fines
• In extreme cases, require removal

Bottom line:
If you have an HOA, always get approval first—before permits and before building.

We help guide clients through this process to make sure everything is aligned from both the HOA and city side before construction begins.

Permits are processed at the city or municipality level, but to get a deck permit in Minnesota you’ll typically need a set of basic construction drawings that show how the deck will be built and where it will be located.

Site plan
• Shows the deck’s location on your property
• Includes property lines, setbacks, and distances to the house
• Often based on a survey or plat of survey

Framing plan (top view)
• Layout of joists, beams, and posts
• Joist spacing and direction
• Overall deck dimensions

Elevation view (side view)
• Height of the deck above grade
• Guardrail and stair details
• Overall structure from the side

Footing and foundation details
• Footing size and depth (must meet frost depth in Minnesota)
• Post attachment and support details

Connection details
• How the deck attaches to the house (ledger board, fasteners, flashing)
• Hardware and structural connections

Additional items (if applicable)
• Stair details (rise/run, width, handrails)
• Railing/guardrail specifications
• Roof or porch details if the deck is covered
• Material specifications

The goal is to show that your deck:
• Meets structural requirements
• Complies with setbacks and zoning
• Follows Minnesota Residential Code

Bottom line:
You don’t need overly complicated plans, but you do need clear, complete drawings that show how the deck is built and where it sits on the property.

We handle this as part of our process to make sure permits get approved quickly and without back-and-forth.

In many cases, no—engineering is not required for a standard deck, as long as it follows prescriptive building code.

Most residential decks can be built using the Minnesota Residential Code (based on IRC guidelines), which provides standard requirements for:
• Joist sizes and spacing
• Beam spans
• Footing sizes
• Ledger connections

If your deck falls within these guidelines, additional engineering is typically not needed.

Engineering may be needed when a project goes beyond standard conditions, such as:
• Large or complex decks
• Multi-level designs
• Unusual layouts or long spans
• Heavy loads (hot tubs, roofs, pergolas, porches)
• Alternative framing materials (steel, aluminum, composite)
• Decks attached to non-standard structures

In these cases, a structural engineer may be required to verify that the design is safe and code-compliant.

Some cities may require engineering for certain conditions even if others don’t, especially for more complex or custom builds.

Bottom line:
Most standard decks don’t require engineering—but more complex or custom projects often do.

We determine this early in the design process and handle any required engineering to ensure everything is built safely and approved without delays.

Most deck projects in Minnesota require 2–3 inspections during construction to ensure everything meets code.

Footing inspection
• Confirms depth (frost depth ~60”) and size of footings
• Ensures proper placement and spacing

Framing inspection (sometimes required)
• Checks beams, joists, hardware, and connections
• Verifies structural components before decking is installed
• Not always required in every city, but common for larger or more complex decks

Final inspection
• Reviews the completed deck
• Checks railings, stairs, guard heights, and overall safety
• Confirms everything matches approved plans and code

Additional inspections (if applicable)
• Electrical inspection (lighting, outlets, heaters)
• Gas inspection (fire table, outdoor kitchen)
• Porch/roof inspection if the deck includes a covered structure

What inspectors are looking for
• Proper footing depth and support
• Correct framing and fastening
• Safe stairs and railings
• Overall code compliance

Bottom line:
Most decks require footing and final inspections, with framing sometimes included depending on the project.

We coordinate inspections as part of our process to keep projects moving and ensure everything passes without issues.

Yes—most contractors can handle the permit process for you, and it’s typically the preferred approach.

A qualified contractor will usually take care of:
• Preparing and submitting permit drawings and documents
• Coordinating with the city or municipality
• Responding to any plan review comments
• Scheduling required inspections

This helps ensure everything is done correctly and approved without delays.

The permitting process can be detailed, and mistakes or missing information can slow things down. Working with a contractor who is familiar with local codes and city requirements helps avoid:
• Revisions or resubmittals
• Delays in approval
• Code compliance issues during inspections

What you may still be responsible for
• HOA approval (if applicable)
• Signing permit applications or documents
• Paying permit fees (sometimes handled by the contractor and billed back)

Bottom line:
Yes—a contractor can and should handle the permitting process for you.

We manage permitting from start to finish, making sure everything is submitted correctly and approved so the project moves forward without unnecessary delays.

In Minnesota (following the International Residential Code or IRC), deck joists are typically spaced 16 inches on center (16" O.C.) for standard residential construction.

Code minimum standard
• 16" on center is the most common spacing allowed by code
• Some situations allow 24" on center, depending on decking material and span
• Spacing must also align with manufacturer requirements for composite/PVC decking

Joist spacing directly impacts:
• Deck strength and stiffness
• How the decking feels underfoot
• Long-term performance (especially with low-maintenance materials)

Wider spacing can lead to a softer feel or more deflection, particularly with composite or PVC boards.

While 16" O.C. meets code, Lakeside Decking builds decks at 12" on center.
• Creates a much more solid, rigid feel
• Better supports composite and PVC decking
• Helps reduce long-term sagging or movement

Bottom line:
Minnesota code typically allows 16" on center joist spacing, but tighter spacing improves performance.

We build at 12" on center to create a stronger, more stable deck that holds up better over time—especially with low-maintenance materials.

In Minnesota, deck footings must extend to at least 60 inches below grade.

Minnesota has a deep frost line, and footings need to extend below it to prevent frost heave, which can cause decks to shift, lift, or settle unevenly over time.

What code requires
• Minimum depth: 60 inches
• Footings must bear on undisturbed soil
• Sized appropriately for the load they support (deck, porch, pergola, etc.)

This applies to most residential decks across the Twin Cities and surrounding areas.

When deeper or larger footings may be needed
• Heavier structures (porches, roofs, hot tubs, pergolas)
• Poor soil conditions
• Larger or more complex decks

Bottom line:
Deck footings in Minnesota must be at least 60 inches deep to get below the frost line.

We design and install footings to meet or exceed this requirement so the structure stays stable long-term—even through harsh winters.

Yes—helical piles (or helical footings) are allowed in Minnesota, but they must meet specific code and engineering requirements.

The Minnesota Residential Code permits alternative foundation systems like helical piles, as long as they:
• Are engineered for the specific load
• Are installed per manufacturer specifications
• Meet or exceed frost depth requirements (typically 60”)
• Are approved by the local building official

Helical piles are becoming more common because they offer:
• Faster installation (no digging or concrete cure time)
• Immediate load-bearing capacity
• Consistent performance in poor or variable soil conditions

Most municipalities will require:
• Engineering documentation or load ratings from the manufacturer
• Proof of proper installation
• Sometimes inspector sign-off during or after installation

When they make the most sense
• Tight access sites
• Projects on slopes or near water
• Faster build timelines (especially in colder months)

Bottom line:
Yes, helical piles are allowed in Minnesota—but they must be engineered, approved, and installed correctly.

We use systems like this when they’re the right fit for the project and handle the coordination to ensure they meet all local code requirements.

Ground screws are a type of helical foundation system—steel shafts with a screw-like base that are driven deep into the ground to support structures like decks. They serve the same purpose as traditional concrete footings but use a mechanical installation instead of excavation and pouring concrete.

How they work
• Installed by rotating them into the soil using specialized equipment
• Reach frost depth (typically 60” in Minnesota)
• Provide immediate load-bearing support once installed

Are they a good choice in Minnesota?
Yes—when properly engineered and installed, ground screws can be an excellent option for decks in Minnesota.

Benefits
• Fast installation: No digging or concrete curing. They can often be installed in a single day. 
• Cold-weather friendly: Ideal for winter builds since frozen ground isn’t an issue. 
• Consistent performance: Engineered for specific loads and soil conditions. Less risk of issues from poor concrete installation. 
• Cleaner install: Minimal disruption to yard and landscaping

Things to consider
• Must be engineered for the project and soil conditions
• Require approval from the local building official
• Not all installers are experienced with them

How they compare to concrete footings
• Concrete: traditional, widely accepted, proven
• Ground screws: faster, cleaner, more consistent when done correctly

Bottom line:
Ground screws are a reliable, code-compliant alternative to concrete footings in Minnesota when properly designed and installed.

We use systems like these when they make sense for the project—especially for efficiency, winter builds, and minimizing site disruption.

In most cases, no—floating footings are not allowed for typical decks in Minnesota.

Floating footings are shallow concrete pads that sit near the surface, rather than extending down below the frost line. Minnesota requires footings to extend to frost depth (about 60”) to prevent movement caused by freeze-thaw cycles.

Floating footings:
• Sit above the frost line
• Are more likely to shift, heave, or settle over time
• Do not meet standard code for most deck structures

In some limited cases, floating footings may be allowed if the deck is:
• Very low to the ground (typically under 30”)
• Freestanding (not attached to the house)
• Built to specific local guidelines

However, many cities still do not allow them at all, or heavily restrict their use.

What’s typically required instead
• Footings at 60” depth
• Approved alternatives like helical piles / ground screws

Bottom line:
Floating footings are generally not permitted for most decks in Minnesota due to frost concerns.

We design foundations to meet frost-depth requirements so the deck stays stable long-term—especially through harsh winters.

There isn’t one single statewide rule—deck setbacks are determined by local zoning codes, not the Minnesota building code.

In most Twin Cities West Metro suburbs, decks must generally be:
~20 feet from the rear property line
~5–10 feet from side property lines

These are very common baseline numbers, but they vary by city, neighborhood, and zoning district.

Decks are usually considered an attached structure or extension of the home, so they must follow the same setback rules as the house itself.

Some cities in the Twin Cities area allow:
• Encroachments into setbacks (especially for lower decks)
• Reduced setbacks for ground-level or freestanding decks
• Variances for unique lot conditions

For example, some municipalities allow decks to extend several feet into setback areas or be closer to property lines if certain conditions are met.

What affects your specific setback
• City (Plymouth, Minnetonka, Maple Grove, etc.)
• Zoning district
• Whether the deck is attached or freestanding
• Deck height above grade
• Easements or wetlands on the property

Bottom line:
Most decks in the West Metro need to be about 5–10 feet off side property lines and ~20 feet off the rear, but it varies by city.

We verify setbacks early in the design process so the layout works within your lot—avoiding surprises during permitting.

In most cases, decks near Lake Minnetonka must follow their respective municipality's shoreland setback rules, which are more restrictive than typical property line setbacks. 

For residential properties on Lake Minnetonka, structures are generally required to be at least 50 feet from the ordinary high water level (OHWL).

In addition to city and state rules, many properties around Lake Minnetonka fall under the Minnehaha Creek Watershed District (MCWD)
• MCWD may require separate permits or approvals
• They review projects for stormwater, runoff, and environmental impact
• Their requirements can apply even if the city approves the project

Additionally, even though a deck may feel “open,” it is still considered a structure under zoning code, so it must follow the same shoreline setback requirements as the home or addition.

Are there any exceptions?
• Existing decks within the setback may be repaired or replaced (with restrictions - often "like for like")
• Some properties may have grandfathered conditions
• Variances may be possible, but are not guaranteed and require approval

In most cases, building closer to the water than the allowed setback is not permitted for new construction.

Other factors to consider
• Local city rules (Orono, Minnetonka, Wayzata, etc.)
• DNR shoreland regulations
• Bluff lines or steep slopes
• Impervious surface and hardcover limits

Bottom line:
Most new decks on Lake Minnetonka must be built at least 50 feet from the water, and may also require approval from the Minnehaha Creek Watershed District.

We review all applicable regulations early in the design process to make sure everything is aligned before moving forward.

In most cases, no—you cannot build a deck in an easement, or it is at least strongly restricted.

An easement is an area on your property that is reserved for utilities, drainage, or access, even though you technically own the land.

Common examples include:
• Utility easements (gas, electric, sewer)
• Drainage or stormwater easements
• Access easements

Structures like decks are usually not allowed because they can:
• Block access for maintenance or repairs
• Interfere with underground utilities
• Disrupt drainage patterns

Even if construction is allowed, the easement holder (utility or city) typically has the right to remove the structure if access is needed.

Sometimes, limited encroachments may be allowed if:
• You receive written approval from the easement holder
• The structure does not interfere with its intended use

However, approval is not guaranteed and varies by city and utility provider.

Most homeowners should plan to keep decks completely outside easement areas to avoid:
• Permit issues
• Future removal or damage
• Delays in approval

Bottom line:
Building a deck in an easement is usually not allowed or not recommended, even if technically possible.

We review surveys and easements early in the design process to make sure the layout avoids conflicts and passes permitting without issues.

In Minnesota, only very small and simple decks may be built without a permit—and most decks do not qualify.

A permit is typically not required if the deck is:
• Freestanding (not attached to the house)
• 30 inches or less above grade
• Does not include stairs or guardrails
• Not part of an exit door (in many cases)

Even if size isn’t the main factor, these restrictions limit no-permit decks to:
• Small, ground-level platforms
• Basic patio-style decks

Once a deck is attached, elevated, or includes stairs, a permit is almost always required.

Important to know
• Local cities may have additional requirements or interpretations
• Zoning rules (setbacks, easements, coverage) still apply
• Even no-permit decks must still be built to code standards

Bottom line:
There isn’t a simple “square footage limit”—it’s based on how the deck is built. In most cases, anything beyond a small, ground-level deck will require a permit.

We handle permitting as part of our process so everything is built correctly and approved from the start.

Yes—a deck can absolutely be built over a walkout basement patio, and it’s a common way to maximize both upper and lower outdoor living space.

The deck is built above the patio using proper structural support, creating:
• An upper-level deck
• A covered patio or living space underneath

This is especially popular for walkout homes where the lower level already has direct yard access.

Ways to maximize the space below
• Under-deck drainage systems: Capture water from the deck above, channel it away to keep the area below dry. Allow the space to function like a covered patio. 
• Ceiling systems: Finished ceilings (like tongue-and-groove or panel systems) create a clean, finished look underneath. 
• Lighting and electrical: Recessed or surface-mounted lighting, and/or outlets for TVs, heaters, and other features. 
• Screens or enclosure options: Add screens, vinyl windows, or panels to turn the space into a three-season or screened-in area. 

Things to consider
• Proper drainage design is critical
• Structural framing must account for both levels
• Headroom and stair placement need to be planned carefully

Bottom line:
Yes, building a deck over a walkout patio is a great way to create two usable outdoor spaces in one footprint.

We design these setups to fully utilize the area below—not just leave it as leftover space—so it becomes a functional part of the overall project.

Yes—but building near lakes or wetlands in Minnesota is heavily regulated, and there are additional rules beyond standard deck construction.

Decks near lakes must follow shoreland zoning rules, which typically require structures to be at least 50 feet from the water (varies by location and lake classification). 

These setbacks are designed to protect water quality and prevent erosion.

If your property includes or is near a wetland:
• Building may be limited or prohibited in certain areas
• Buffers or protected zones may apply
• Additional review is often required before approval

Many properties in the West Metro fall under the Minnehaha Creek Watershed District (MCWD).
• They may require separate permits or approvals
• They review projects for stormwater runoff and environmental impact
• Their requirements apply in addition to city and state regulations

Even if your city approves a project, MCWD approval may still be needed.

Other factors that can affect approval
• Slope or bluff conditions
• Impervious surface limits
• Existing structures within setback areas
• Local city zoning rules (Orono, Minnetonka, Wayzata, etc.)

Building near water is often possible—but it requires:
• Careful planning
• Coordination between multiple agencies
• A design that works within environmental constraints

Bottom line:
Yes, decks can be built near lakes or wetlands, but they must meet shoreland, city, and watershed district requirements.

We review all applicable regulations early in the design process—including MCWD when applicable—so the project is approved and built correctly from the start.

Yes—lakefront decks often require additional permits and approvals beyond a standard building permit.

What’s typically required
• City building permit: Required for structural approval and code compliance. 
• Shoreland zoning review: Ensures the deck meets setbacks from the water and reviews impact on the shoreline and surrounding property. 

Many lakefront properties in the West Metro fall under the Minnehaha Creek Watershed District (MCWD)
• May require a separate permit
• Reviews stormwater management and environmental impact
• Applies even if the city has already approved the project

Additional considerations
• Wetlands or buffer zones on the property
• Impervious surface or hardcover limits
• Bluff or slope regulations
• Replacement vs. new construction rules

Lakefront projects often involve multiple layers of approval, including:
• City
• Watershed district
• Occasionally state-level review (depending on the site)

Bottom line:
Yes, lakefront decks usually require more than just a standard permit.

We coordinate all required approvals—including watershed review when needed—so the project moves forward smoothly and meets all regulations.

In most cases, yes—louvered pergolas do require a permit in Minnesota.

Louvered pergolas are considered permanent structures, not just decorative features. They typically include:
• Structural posts and beams
• A roof system (adjustable louvers)
• Footings below frost depth

Because of this, they must meet Minnesota Residential Code and local zoning requirements—similar to a deck or porch.

When a permit is almost always required
• When the pergola is attached to the house
• When it includes footings or structural supports
• When it’s a motorized or louvered system (treated more like a roof structure)

Depending on the property, you may also need:
• HOA approval
• Setback/zoning review
• Approval from the Minnehaha Creek Watershed District (common in the West Metro)

Smaller, non-structural pergolas (like simple wood kits without footings) may not require permits—but this typically does not apply to louvered systems like StruXure.

Bottom line:
Louvered pergolas almost always require a permit in Minnesota because they are structural, engineered systems.

We handle permitting as part of our process to ensure everything is approved and built to code from the start.

For custom decks, most projects take 2 to 6+ weeks to build, depending on size, complexity, and site conditions.

Typical timelines
• Smaller, straightforward decks: ~2–3 weeks
• Mid-size custom decks: ~3–5 weeks
• Large or highly detailed projects: 5–8+ weeks

For more intricate builds—especially those with multiple features or levels—timelines can extend beyond that.

What affects the timeline
• Size and layout of the deck
• Structural complexity (height, multi-level, framing)
• Features like stairs, railings, lighting, or pergolas
• Site conditions and access
• Weather and inspection scheduling

Permitting and material lead times also happen before construction begins and can add to the overall project timeline.

Custom decks are not one-size-fits-all builds—they’re carefully planned and executed to match the space and how it will be used.

Bottom line:
Most custom decks take a few weeks to build, but larger or more detailed projects take longer.

We build with a focus on quality and long-term performance, so timelines reflect doing the job right—not rushing through it.

Every deck project is a little different, but most follow a general flow that moves from planning and prep to construction and final walkthrough.

Behind-the-Scenes Preparation
Before construction begins, a significant amount of work happens off-site. This includes finalizing plans, engineering (if needed), ordering materials, coordinating permits, and scheduling crews. This prep work is what allows the build to move efficiently once it starts.

Demolition (if applicable)
If there’s an existing deck or structure, the project typically begins with demo and removal. This can involve tearing down old framing, removing footings, and clearing the area for a fresh start.

Foundation and Structure
The build starts with footings and structural framing—whether that’s concrete, helical piles, or ground screws. From there, posts, beams, and joists are installed to create the structural base of the deck.

Decking, Railing, and Layout
Once framing is complete, the deck begins to take shape with:
• Decking installation
• Stairs and landings
• Railing systems

This is where the project starts to feel more “finished” visually.

Additional components and features
Many projects include upgrades that are integrated during or after the main build, such as:
• Lighting and electrical
• Pergolas or shade structures
• Screens, privacy walls, or under-deck systems

Inspections and Coordination
Throughout the project, required inspections are scheduled and completed to ensure everything meets or exceeds code. These are coordinated alongside construction to keep things moving.

Crew Presence and Jobsite Activity
You can expect consistent crew activity during active phases of construction. Some stages move quickly, while others—especially detailed work—take more time and precision.

Communication Throughout the Project
You’ll receive regular updates from your Project Manager throughout the build. This includes progress updates, scheduling information, and any important decisions or changes, so you’re always informed on what’s happening and what’s next.

Punch-out and Finishing Details
As the project wraps up, the team completes punch-out items: small adjustments, final details, and quality checks to make sure everything is completed to standard.

Final Walkthrough
The project concludes with a walkthrough, where everything is reviewed, questions are answered, and you’re introduced to the finished space.

Bottom line:
Deck construction is a coordinated process with a lot happening both before and during the build.

We manage each phase—and keep you informed throughout—so the project runs smoothly and the finished space meets the level of detail and quality we expect.

Yes—decks can absolutely be built during winter in Minnesota, and many projects are completed during the colder months.

Modern building methods and materials allow construction to continue even in cold conditions:
• Helical piles or ground screws can be installed without excavation or concrete curing
• Framing and decking materials can be installed in cold weather with proper handling
• Experienced crews adjust techniques to account for temperature and conditions

Advantages of building in winter
• Faster scheduling and availability
• Less impact on landscaping
• Your deck is ready to enjoy as soon as spring arrives

Things to consider
• Cold temperatures can make materials more rigid, requiring careful installation
• Snow and low temperatures or windchill may occasionally impact scheduling
• Some finishing touches—like paint, staining, or certain adhesives—may need to wait until warmer temperatures

The core structure of the deck can be fully completed in winter. Any items that require warmer conditions are typically minor and quick to finish once temperatures rise.

Bottom line:
Yes, decks can be built in winter in Minnesota when done correctly.

We build year-round and adjust our process for winter conditions—so your project is structurally complete and ready to enjoy, with only minimal finishing touches left for spring if needed.

Yes—composite decking can be safely installed in cold weather when proper installation practices are followed.

Composite boards can become slightly more rigid and less flexible in colder temperatures. This doesn’t prevent installation, but it does require more careful handling.

What installers adjust for:
• Spacing: Boards are installed with proper gaps to account for expansion in warmer weather
• Fastening: Extra care is taken to avoid cracking or over-driving fasteners
• Handling: Boards are cut and installed with techniques suited for colder conditions

Once installed, composite decking performs very well in cold climates:
• Designed to handle freeze-thaw cycles
• Resistant to moisture absorption and rot
• Maintains structural integrity through seasonal changes

Similar to winter construction in general, a few minor items may be delayed:
• Certain adhesives or specialty trims
• Small finishing details depending on product requirements

These are typically quick to complete once temperatures warm up.

Bottom line:
Yes, composite decking can be installed safely in cold weather with the right approach.

We adjust our installation methods for winter conditions so the deck performs exactly as intended long-term—not just during the build.

Some level of impact is normal during construction, but we take steps to minimize disruption and restore the area as much as possible.

During a deck build, there will be:
• Foot traffic from crews
• Material deliveries and staging
• Equipment used for footings and framing

This can lead to minor wear on grass or landscaping, especially around the work area.

The level of impact can vary depending on the time of year:
• Winter: Frozen ground helps protect the yard, so impact is typically minimal
• Spring: Softer, saturated ground can lead to more noticeable wear or ruts
• Summer/Fall: Conditions are usually moderate, with manageable impact

How we minimize impact: 
• Careful planning of material staging areas
• Using ground protection when possible
• Limiting equipment use to necessary areas
• Keeping the jobsite organized and controlled

At the end of the project, we:
• Remove debris and materials
• Clean the jobsite
• Address minor disturbances from construction

In most cases, any affected areas (like grass) recover naturally or require only minimal touch-up.

While your yard won’t look untouched during construction, the goal is to keep the impact controlled, temporary, and dependent on conditions.

Bottom line:
Some minor yard disruption is part of any construction project, but it’s typically limited and short-term.

We take care to protect your property as much as possible—and factors like season and ground conditions play a big role in how much impact you’ll see.

Weather delays are a normal part of outdoor construction in Minnesota, but they’re typically temporary and built into the overall timeline.

Certain conditions can pause or slow work, such as:
• Heavy rain or storms
• Blizzards and/or heavy snow accumulation
• High winds
• Extremely wet or muddy ground

These conditions can impact safety, material performance, and jobsite conditions, so work may be temporarily paused.

How delays are handled: 
• Work resumes as soon as conditions are safe and suitable
• The schedule is adjusted to keep the project moving efficiently
• Crews may shift tasks when possible to minimize downtime

You’ll receive updates from your Project Manager if weather impacts the schedule, including:
• What’s causing the delay
• How it affects the timeline
• When work is expected to resume

Most weather delays are short-term—typically a day or two at a time—and don’t significantly impact the overall project timeline.

Bottom line:
Weather delays can happen, but they’re usually minor and temporary.

We plan for them, communicate clearly, and keep your project moving forward as efficiently as possible once conditions allow.

PVC and composite decks are designed for long-term performance, with most lasting 25–50+ years depending on the product and installation quality.

General lifespan
• Composite decking: ~25–40+ years
• PVC decking: ~30–50+ years

These materials are built to resist moisture, rot, insects, and weathering, which is why they significantly outlast traditional wood decking.

TimberTech products are among the longer-lasting options in the industry, with warranties that reflect their expected performance:
• TimberTech Composite: ~25–30+ year limited product warranty
• TimberTech Advanced PVC: 50-year limited product warranty

Many TimberTech lines also include fade and stain warranties, which help maintain appearance over time.

What impacts longevity
• Quality of installation and framing
• Joist spacing and structural support
• Exposure to sun, moisture, and foot traffic
• Regular cleaning and basic maintenance

A properly built PVC or composite deck is typically a “build it once” investment, with minimal maintenance and decades of reliable use.

Bottom line:
Most PVC and composite decks last 25–50+ years, with TimberTech products offering some of the longest warranties in the industry.

We pair high-quality materials with proper installation methods to ensure the deck performs at that level long-term—not just on paper.

Minnesota weather can be very demanding on decks, which is why material choice and proper construction matter so much.

One of the biggest factors is repeated freezing and thawing.
• Moisture gets into materials, then expands when it freezes
• This can cause cracking, shifting, and long-term wear
• Especially impactful on wood and improperly built structures

Decks are exposed to:
• Snow accumulation
• Ice buildup
• Spring melt and heavy rain

This constant moisture can lead to:
• Rot and decay (in wood)
• Mold or mildew buildup
• Structural stress over time

Minnesota sees extreme temperature changes from winter to summer.
• Materials expand and contract
• Lower-quality decking can warp, crack, or loosen over time
• Proper spacing and installation are critical

Even in colder climates, sun exposure still affects decks:
• Can cause fading or discoloration
• Breaks down lower-quality materials over time

Because of these conditions:
• Materials need to be moisture-resistant and stable
• Structures must be built to handle movement and load changes
• Details like spacing, flashing, and ventilation matter more

Composite and PVC decking are specifically designed to handle:
• Moisture without rot
• Expansion and contraction
• Long-term exposure to harsh conditions

Bottom line:
Minnesota’s weather puts a lot of stress on outdoor structures, from freeze-thaw cycles to moisture and temperature swings.

We design and build decks with these conditions in mind—so they hold up long-term, not just in the first few seasons.

In Minnesota’s climate, PVC decking lasts the longest, followed closely by high-quality composite decking.

PVC decking
• Typically lasts 30–50+ years
• Made from 100% synthetic material (no wood content)
• Highly resistant to moisture, rot, and freeze-thaw damage
• Performs best in harsh climates with heavy snow and moisture

Composite decking
• Typically lasts 25–40+ years
• Made from a blend of wood fibers and plastic
• Resists moisture, mold, and warping
• Designed to handle Minnesota’s temperature swings and seasonal changes

How wood compares
• Pressure-treated wood: ~10–15 years
• Cedar: ~15–25 years (with maintenance)
• More vulnerable to moisture, rot, and movement in Minnesota conditions

Minnesota decks are exposed to:
• Freeze-thaw cycles
• Snow and ice buildup
• Spring moisture and humidity

PVC and composite materials are designed to resist water absorption and structural movement, which are the main causes of deck failure in this climate.

PVC = best for maximum longevity and lowest maintenance
Composite = best balance of durability, cost, and appearance
Wood = shorter lifespan with higher upkeep

Bottom line:
For Minnesota, PVC decking lasts the longest, with composite close behind.

We typically recommend these materials because they’re built to handle the specific conditions decks face here—so you’re not dealing with premature wear, movement, or replacement down the road.

No—high-quality composite decking is designed to handle freezing temperatures and does not typically crack in cold weather.

Composite decking is engineered to withstand:
• Freeze-thaw cycles
• Snow and ice exposure
• Seasonal temperature swings

It remains structurally stable even in harsh winter conditions.

While it doesn’t crack under normal conditions:
• Boards can become slightly more rigid in very cold temperatures
• This mainly affects installation, not long-term performance

Cracking is rare, but can happen if:
• Low-quality or older composite products are used
• Boards are installed incorrectly (improper spacing or fastening)
• There is excessive impact in extreme cold

Newer composite and capped boards (like TimberTech) are designed with:
• Protective outer layers (capping)
• Improved flexibility and durability
• Better resistance to moisture and temperature changes

Bottom line:
Composite decking does not typically crack in freezing temperatures when properly installed and using quality materials.

We use products designed for Minnesota’s climate, so they hold up through extreme cold without issues.

Freeze-thaw cycles can have a significant impact on deck framing if the structure isn’t built correctly.

What happens during freeze-thaw
• Moisture gets into soil and materials
• Water freezes and expands
• Then thaws and contracts

This repeated movement can create stress on the structure over time.

Biggest Impact: Footing Movement
• If footings aren’t below frost depth (~60” in Minnesota), they can heave or shift
• This can cause the deck to become uneven or unstable

Moisture exposure to framing
• Repeated wetting and drying can lead to rot, decay, or weakening in wood framing
• Especially at connection points and horizontal surfaces

Fasteners and connections: Expansion and contraction can loosen connections over time if not properly installed. 

How to prevent issues
• Install footings below frost depth
• Use proper drainage and spacing to reduce moisture buildup
• Protect framing with tape or flashing on top surfaces
• Use quality materials and hardware designed for exterior use

Most freeze-thaw issues are preventable with proper design and construction—it’s not something homeowners need to worry about if the deck is built correctly.

Bottom line:
Freeze-thaw cycles can affect deck framing, but mainly when structures are not built to handle them.

We design and build decks specifically for Minnesota conditions—so movement, moisture, and long-term durability are accounted for from the start.

Composite decking is easy to maintain and typically only requires basic cleaning a few times per year.

Routine cleaning
• Rinse the deck with a garden hose
• Use warm water, mild soap, and a soft-bristle brush
• Gently scrub areas with dirt, pollen, or buildup

This is usually enough for regular maintenance.

For tougher spots
• Use a composite deck cleaner if needed
• Clean spills (like grease or food) as soon as possible
• Light pressure washing can be used if done carefully (low pressure and proper distance)

What to avoid
• Harsh chemicals or bleach (unless manufacturer-approved)
• Metal brushes or abrasive tools
• High-pressure washing too close to the surface

Minnesota-specific tips
• Remove leaves and debris to prevent staining
• Clean in spring to remove winter residue
• Use a plastic shovel for snow removal to avoid scratching

Most homeowners spend very little time maintaining composite decking compared to wood—no staining, sealing, or sanding required.

Bottom line:
Composite decking is cleaned with simple soap, water, and occasional deeper cleaning when needed.

We recommend low-maintenance materials like this so upkeep stays minimal and predictable over time.

Yes—but high-quality composite decking is designed to fade very minimally and stabilize over time.

Most composite decking goes through a natural weathering period shortly after installation:
• Slight color change within the first few months
• Then the color stabilizes and remains consistent long-term

This is normal and expected with outdoor materials.

How much fading to expect
• Modern capped composite decking has very low fade rates
• Most color change is subtle—not drastic
• Far less fading than traditional wood decking

High-quality products (like TimberTech) use a protective outer cap layer that:
• Resists UV damage
• Reduces long-term fading
• Helps maintain color consistency

Many also include fade and stain warranties, which guarantee performance over time.

What affects fading
• Direct sun exposure (south/west-facing decks)
• Color choice (darker colors may show more change initially)
• Overall product quality

After the initial weathering period, most homeowners notice that the deck holds its color very well for years with minimal change.

Bottom line:
Yes, composite decking will fade slightly at first—but modern products are designed to stabilize quickly and maintain their appearance long-term.

We use materials with strong fade warranties so the deck looks good not just after install, but years down the road.

Yes—composite decking can be pressure washed, but it should be done carefully to avoid damaging the surface.

How to pressure wash safely
• Use low pressure (typically under ~1,500 PSI)
• Keep the nozzle at least 8–12 inches away from the surface
• Use a fan tip, not a concentrated stream
• Spray in the direction of the boards/grain

Pressure washing is helpful for:
• Removing stubborn dirt or buildup
• Cleaning after winter
• Refreshing the surface before the season

For regular cleaning, a hose, gentle soap, and soft brush is usually enough.

What to avoid
• High pressure or getting too close (can damage the cap layer)
• Using a zero-degree or pinpoint nozzle
• Lingering in one spot for too long

When done properly, pressure washing is a safe and effective way to clean composite decking, but it’s not something you need to do often.

Bottom line:
Yes, composite decks can be pressure washed—just use low pressure and proper technique.

We recommend simple cleaning most of the time, with pressure washing used occasionally for deeper cleaning when needed.

No—composite decking does not require sealing or staining.

Composite decking is manufactured with a protective outer layer (capping) that:
• Resists moisture and water absorption
• Protects against fading and staining
• Eliminates the need for regular surface treatments
• Unlike wood, it’s designed to perform without added coatings

Wood decking: requires regular sealing, staining, or painting to prevent rot and weathering
Composite decking: maintains its appearance and performance with no sealing or staining required

Instead of sealing or staining, maintenance is limited to:
• Occasional cleaning with soap and water
• Removing debris and buildup

What to avoid
• Paint
• Stain
• Sealers
• These products can damage the surface or void warranties

Bottom line:
Composite decking requires no sealing or staining—ever.

We recommend it because it eliminates one of the biggest long-term maintenance tasks associated with traditional wood decks.

Aluminum railing is very low maintenance, especially compared to wood or steel systems.

Occasional cleaning
• Rinse with water or use mild soap and a soft cloth/brush
• Removes dirt, pollen, and general buildup

Periodic inspection
• Check fasteners and connections
• Ensure everything remains secure and aligned

What you don’t have to do
• No staining or sealing
• No painting
• No concerns about rust or rot

Most aluminum railing systems are powder-coated, which protects against weather, fading, and corrosion.

Minnesota-specific considerations
• Holds up well to snow, ice, and moisture
• Can be rinsed off in spring to remove winter residue
• Salt exposure (if near driveways/walkways) can be cleaned off to maintain finish

Maintenance is minimal—usually just light cleaning a few times per year.

Bottom line:
Aluminum railing requires very little maintenance—mainly occasional cleaning and basic checks.

We use it because it holds up well long-term without the upkeep that comes with wood or other materials.

A deck should be inspected by the homeowner at least once per year, along with quick visual checks throughout the season.

Recommended schedule
• Full inspection: once per year (typically spring)
• Quick checks: periodically during use, especially after winter or severe weather

What to look for
• Loose or damaged boards
• Movement in railings or stairs
• Signs of moisture damage or rot (on wood framing)
• Loose fasteners or hardware
• Any shifting or settling

In Minnesota, spring is the best time for a full inspection because:
• Snow and ice can cause wear over winter
• Freeze-thaw cycles may impact structure or connections
• It ensures everything is ready for the main usage season

When to consider a professional inspection
• Older decks
• Large or elevated structures
• If anything feels loose, unstable, or unusual

Most inspections are quick and straightforward, but they help catch small issues before they become bigger problems.

Bottom line:
Decks should be inspected once a year, with occasional checks in between.

We build decks to last, but regular inspections help ensure they stay safe, stable, and performing as expected over time.

Yes—deck lighting can absolutely be installed, and it’s one of the most popular upgrades for both function and aesthetics.

What deck lighting includes
• Post cap lights for ambient glow
• Stair and riser lights for safety
• Under-rail or accent lighting for subtle illumination
• Under-deck lighting for lower-level spaces

Why homeowners add lighting
• Improves safety on stairs and walking surfaces
• Extends usability into the evening
• Enhances the overall look and feel of the space

Lighting is typically:
• Low-voltage for efficiency and safety
• Integrated during construction for a clean, hidden look
• Connected to timers, switches, or smart controls

Lighting can be added during the build or retrofitted later, but it’s easiest and cleanest when planned from the start.

Bottom line:
Yes, deck lighting can be installed and customized in a variety of ways.

We integrate lighting into the overall design so it enhances both the function and the look of the space—not just as an afterthought.

A deck drainage system is designed to capture and redirect water from the deck surface above, keeping the space below dry and usable.

Water that passes through the decking boards is:
• Collected by a system installed between or below the joists
• Directed into gutters or channels
• Routed away from the structure through downspouts or drainage paths

Type 1: Above-joist systems

• Installed on top of the framing (before decking goes down)
• Prevent water from ever reaching the joists
• Help protect the framing and extend lifespan

Type 2: Below-joist systems

• Installed underneath the deck
• Capture water after it passes through the decking
• Often paired with ceiling systems for a finished look

Why homeowners add them
• Creates a dry patio or living space underneath
• Protects framing from long-term moisture exposure
• Allows for features like lighting, fans, and ceilings below the deck

Without a drainage system, water will drip through the deck. With one, the space below can function more like a covered outdoor room.

Bottom line:
A deck drainage system turns the area below your deck into a dry, usable space by managing water properly.

We design these systems as part of the overall project so they integrate cleanly and perform long-term—not as an afterthought.

A deck may need to be replaced based on a combination of age, condition, and structural integrity.

Age is a major factor
• Wood decks: typically last ~10–20 years depending on maintenance
• Composite/PVC decks: often last 25–50+ years

If your deck is approaching or beyond its expected lifespan, it’s worth taking a closer look—even if it still appears okay on the surface.

Common signs it may need replacement
• Structural movement: Deck feels bouncy, soft, or unstable. There may be noticeable shifting or settling. 
• Rot or deterioration: There is soft or spongy wood (especially in framing), visible rot, mold, or decay. 
• Loose or failing components: Wobbly railings or stairs, loose fasteners, and/or separating connections. 
• Cracking, splitting, or warping: Boards or framing members showing significant wear. Twisting or cupping of materials.
• Ledger or attachment issues: Gaps where the deck connects to the house, or signs of water damage near the ledger. 

When repair vs. replacement makes sense
• Minor issues can often be repaired
• Widespread or structural issues typically require full replacement

If multiple areas are failing, replacement is usually the more cost-effective long-term solution.

Even if the surface boards look okay, underlying framing may be compromised—so it’s important to evaluate the entire structure, not just what’s visible.

Bottom line:
If your deck is older or showing signs of movement, rot, or structural wear, it may be time for replacement.

We help assess existing decks to determine whether repair makes sense or if a full rebuild is the better long-term investment.

Sometimes—but in many cases, it’s not recommended, especially when upgrading to composite or PVC decking.

An existing frame may be reused if it is:
• Structurally sound (no rot, movement, or damage)
• Built to current code standards
• Supported by footings that meet current code (including proper depth and sizing)
• Properly spaced and aligned

Even then, it needs to be carefully evaluated before moving forward.

Why it’s often not a good fit:

1. Joist spacing issues
• Older decks are often built at 16" or 24" on center
• Most composite/PVC decking performs best at 12" on center

2. Footings not up to code
• Many older decks have shallow or undersized footings
• May not meet Minnesota’s frost depth (~60”) requirements
• Can lead to long-term movement or failure

3. Hidden damage
• Framing may look fine but have internal rot or weakening
• This is often not fully visible until the deck is opened up

4. Outdated construction methods
• Older decks may not meet current code or best practices
• Ledger attachment, flashing, and hardware may need upgrading

In many cases, rot or structural issues aren’t fully discovered until demolition has already started, meaning: 
• Repairs can become more expensive than expected
• You’re already committed to the layout and structure
• It limits the ability to redesign or improve the deck

While reusing framing can seem like a cost savings upfront, it often introduces:
• Risk
• Uncertainty
• Reduced lifespan of the new decking

For most projects—especially with low-maintenance materials—it’s better to build a new, code-compliant frame and foundation that matches the lifespan of the decking.

Bottom line:
Reusing a deck frame is sometimes possible, but often not the best long-term solution—especially when footings and hidden conditions are factored in.

We evaluate each structure carefully, but in most cases recommend rebuilding so the entire system performs consistently and avoids surprises mid-project.

Structural deck damage isn’t always obvious—but there are several key signs that indicate a deck may no longer be safe or sound.

Movement or instability
• Deck feels bouncy, soft, or uneven
• Noticeable shifting when walking or using stairs

Rot or deterioration
• Soft or spongy wood, especially in posts, beams, or joists
• Visible rot, mold, or decay
• Areas that hold moisture or don’t dry out

Loose or failing connections
• Wobbly railings or stairs
• Loose bolts, screws, or hardware
• Gaps forming at connection points

Ledger board issues (connection to the house)
• Separation between the deck and the home
• Signs of water damage where the deck attaches
• Missing or improper flashing

Cracking, splitting, or warping
• Structural members (not just decking boards) showing damage
• Twisting or sagging beams or joists

Footing or foundation movement
• Posts shifting or leaning
• Deck no longer level
• Signs of heaving from freeze-thaw cycles

Rusting or failing hardware
• Corroded brackets, fasteners, or connectors
• Hardware pulling away from wood

If you notice one or more of these issues—especially movement, rot, or connection problems—it’s a sign the deck may need repair or replacement.

Bottom line:
Structural deck damage often shows up as movement, rot, or failing connections.

If anything feels loose or unstable, it’s worth having it evaluated—catching issues early can prevent bigger problems down the road.

Repairs are cheaper in the short term, while a rebuild is often more cost-effective long-term.

Repairs are typically the better option if:
• Issues are minor and localized
• The frame and footings are still in good condition
• The deck is relatively new (5 years old or less)

In these cases, fixing specific areas can extend the life of the deck without a full rebuild.

A rebuild is usually the better investment if:
• There are structural issues (frame, ledger, or footings)
• The deck is older or nearing the end of its lifespan
• Problems are widespread, not isolated

At that point, repairs can start to add up without fully solving the underlying issues.

Why repairs can get expensive
• Hidden damage (especially in framing)
• Multiple problem areas that need ongoing fixes
• Upgrading parts of an older deck to meet current code

In some cases, homeowners end up spending a significant portion of a rebuild cost on repairs—without getting the same lifespan.

Repairs = lower upfront cost, shorter extension of life
Rebuild = higher upfront cost, but a fresh start with full lifespan and updated design

Bottom line:
Repairs are cheaper short-term, but a rebuild is often the better long-term value—especially for older or structurally compromised decks.

We help evaluate both options so you’re not putting money into a deck that won’t last.

In Minnesota’s climate, a typical wood deck lasts 10–20 years, depending on the material, maintenance, and how it was built—but some hardwoods can last longer.

Average lifespan by wood type in Minnesota conditions
• Pressure-treated wood: ~10–15 years
• Cedar/redwood: ~15–25 years (with consistent maintenance)
• Hardwoods (Ipe, Ironwood): ~25–40+ years with proper care

Hardwoods like Ipe and Ironwood are much denser and more resistant to moisture, rot, and insects—but still require maintenance to preserve their appearance.

Minnesota weather is especially tough on wood decks due to:
• Freeze-thaw cycles that cause expansion and contraction
• Snow and ice buildup leading to prolonged moisture exposure
• Spring melt and humidity increasing the risk of rot

These conditions accelerate wear compared to milder climates.

What impacts lifespan
• Maintenance (sealing, staining, cleaning)
• Moisture management and drainage
• Sun exposure (UV damage over time)
• Quality of construction (framing, flashing, spacing, etc.)

Even well-maintained wood decks in Minnesota require ongoing upkeep and will eventually need repair or replacement. Hardwood decks last longer, but they don’t eliminate maintenance.

Bottom line:
In Minnesota, most wood decks last 10–20 years, while premium hardwoods like ipe and ironwood can last 25–40+ years with proper care.

We help Twin Cities West Metro homeowners eliminate the maintenance and shorter lifespans that come with wood decks by offering composite and PVC decking with longer lifespans and far less ongoing upkeep in a climate like this.

Lakeside Decking stands behind every project we build with a comprehensive craftsmanship warranty that runs alongside the product warranties provided by our manufacturers. In other words, your project is covered on two fronts: the materials themselves (TimberTech, StruXure, Universal Screens, etc.) are covered by their manufacturer warranties, and our craftsmanship is covered directly by us.

Lakeside Decking Craftsmanship Warranty
• 1-Year Workmanship & Materials Warranty – Your project will be free from defects caused by faulty workmanship or installation for one full year from the date of completion
• 2-Year Systems Warranty – Any plumbing, electrical, heating, or cooling systems we install (lighting, outlets, gas lines, heaters, etc.) are covered against installation defects for two years
• 10-Year Structural Warranty – All framing materials and major structural elements are covered against construction defects for a full decade
• Lifetime Craftsmanship Warranty on Steel Framing – Any Fortress steel framing we install is backed for the lifetime of the structure

Warranty Transfers with the Home
Our warranty runs with the property—meaning if you sell your home, the remaining warranty coverage transfers to the new owner. This is a meaningful resale advantage and reflects our confidence in the long-term performance of every build.

In addition to our craftsmanship warranty, most major products we install carry their own manufacturer warranty:
• TimberTech decking – Lifetime limited product warranty + 50-year fade and stain warranty on Advanced PVC lines
• StruXure louvered pergolas – Limited lifetime structural warranty
• Universal Screens / Screen-eze – Manufacturer-specific coverage on motors, mesh, and framing
• AZEK Alpine ceilings – Lifetime limited warranty
• Fortress Evolution steel framing – 25-year limited warranty for galvanized and powder-coated 

The bottom line
When you build with Lakeside, you're protected by two layers of warranty—ours on the craftsmanship and the manufacturer's on the materials. Together, they're designed to give you decades of confidence in your outdoor living space.

At Lakeside Decking, we offer this level of coverage because we believe in the quality of what we build—and we want every client to know we'll be there long after the project is complete.

Our craftsmanship warranty covers the work we perform—the framing, fastening, finishing, and installation of every component that goes into your project. It's separate from (and in addition to) the manufacturer warranties that cover the materials themselves.

What's Covered Under Our Craftsmanship Warranty
• 1-Year Workmanship & Materials – Full coverage on installation quality, finish work, fastener performance, board layout, trim details, and any defects caused by faulty craftsmanship for one full year after completion
• 2-Year Systems Installation – Coverage on the installation of electrical (lighting, outlets, switches), plumbing (gas lines, water stubs), and heating or cooling components we install for two years
• 10-Year Structural Warranty – Coverage on framing materials and major structural elements—joists, beams, posts, ledger connections, and load-bearing components—for a full decade
• Lifetime Craftsmanship Warranty on Steel Framing – Any Fortress steel framing we install is backed for the lifetime of the structure

Specifically, This Covers Things Like
• Loose or popped fasteners
• Improperly installed decking, railing, or trim
• Framing connections that fail to perform as designed
• Faulty installation of electrical or gas components we wired or plumbed
• Structural defects caused by installation error
• Finish work that fails due to craftsmanship (not normal wear, weather, or material defect)

What's Not Covered
• Normal wear and tear, weathering, or fading
• Damage from improper homeowner maintenance, modifications, or misuse
• Acts of nature (storm damage, hail, fallen trees, flooding)
• Defects in the materials themselves—those fall under the manufacturer's warranty, and we'll help you submit the claim

Our craftsmanship warranty runs with the property, so if you sell your home, the remaining coverage transfers to the next owner—a real advantage at resale.

The bottom line
Our craftsmanship warranty is our promise that the work we did will hold up. If something we installed fails because of how we installed it, we'll make it right.

At Lakeside Decking, we offer this coverage because we build every project to last—and we want every homeowner to feel that confidence long after the final walkthrough.

Yes—decking materials from TimberTech come with strong manufacturer warranties, and that coverage extends beyond decking to include railing and aluminum framing systems as well.

TimberTech Advanced PVC Decking
• Limited Lifetime Product Warranty
• 50-year Fade & Stain Warranty

TimberTech Composite Decking
• 25–30 year Product Warranty
• 25–30 year Fade & Stain Warranty

TimberTech Railing Systems
• 25-year Limited Product Warranty
• 25-year Fade & Stain Warranty (on applicable finishes)

TimberTech Aluminum Framing
• Limited Lifetime Warranty on beams, joists, and posts
• 25-year Limited Product Warranty on fasteners and accessories

Additional warranty features
• Many products include fade and stain protection
• Warranties are often transferable once within a certain timeframe
• Some projects may qualify for a labor warranty when installed by certified contractors

TimberTech warranties are designed to reflect the expected lifespan of the entire system—not just the decking, which is especially important in a climate like Minnesota.

Bottom line:
Yes—TimberTech products are backed by comprehensive warranties across decking, railing, and framing systems, with coverage ranging from 25 years to lifetime depending on the product.

At Lakeside Decking, we pair those manufacturer warranties with proper design, installation, and material selection—so the system actually performs the way it’s intended for the long term.

Yes—StruXure pergolas come with comprehensive manufacturer warranties that cover both structural components and system functionality.

StruXure warranties are structured by component:
• Structural components (posts, beams, louvers, gutters): 15-year warranty
• Mechanical / motorized components (motors, electronics, controls): 5-year warranty
• Some systems may also include extended or limited lifetime coverage on certain components or defects depending on the product and configuration

Additional warranty features
• Warranties are often transferable if you sell your home
• Coverage is designed to reflect the long-term durability of the system
• Proper installation is typically required to maintain full warranty protection

StruXure warranties are designed to cover both the structure and the technology, which is important for a system that combines engineering with motorized features.

Bottom line:
Yes—StruXure pergolas are backed by strong manufacturer warranties, typically including 15 years on structure and 5 years on electronics.

We pair those warranties with proper design, engineering, and installation—so the system performs the way it’s intended and holds up long-term in Minnesota conditions.

Yes—most manufacturer warranties require basic, routine maintenance to remain valid, but the requirements are typically minimal.

For products like composite/PVC decking, aluminum railing, and pergola systems, maintenance generally includes:
• Regular cleaning (removing dirt, debris, and buildup)
• Keeping surfaces free of standing water, leaves, and snow accumulation
• Following manufacturer guidelines for care and use

What’s NOT required
• No sealing or staining for composite or PVC decking
• No painting or refinishing for aluminum systems
• No intensive or ongoing upkeep like traditional wood

Warranties are designed to cover product defects and performance, not damage caused by neglect or misuse.

For example:
• Allowing debris to sit and stain surfaces
• Blocking drainage systems
• Using improper cleaners or tools
...could affect coverage.

Maintenance is simple and occasional—but it helps ensure:
• The product performs as intended
• The warranty remains fully valid

Bottom line:
Yes, basic maintenance is required to keep warranties valid—but it’s typically minimal and easy to manage.

We guide homeowners on proper care so their deck or structure not only looks great, but stays protected under warranty long-term.

To submit a warranty claim or request service on your Lakeside Decking project, email us at production@lakesidedecking.com with a description of the issue and a few photos if possible.

What to Include in Your Email
• A brief description of the issue
• Photos showing the area of concern
• Your project address and approximate completion date
• The best phone number to reach you

What Happens Next
Once we receive your email, our production team will review the issue and respond with next steps. Depending on the nature of the concern, we'll either:
• Handle it directly – For workmanship-related items covered under our Lakeside warranty
• Guide you through a manufacturer claim – For material-specific issues (TimberTech decking, Universal Screens, StruXure pergolas, etc.), we'll help you submit the claim directly with the manufacturer and stay involved as needed

At Lakeside Decking, we stand behind every project we build—and we'll always be your first point of contact, even when a manufacturer warranty is involved.

We respond to all warranty and service requests within 1–2 business days of receiving your email at production@lakesidedecking.com.

It's important to separate two different timelines:
• Initial response (1–2 business days) – You'll hear back from our production team quickly to confirm we've received your request, gather any additional information, and outline next steps
• Time to resolve (varies) – The actual time to remedy the issue depends entirely on what the issue is

What Affects Resolution Time
• Minor workmanship items – Often resolved within a week or two, depending on crew availability and weather
• Material defects – Timelines depend on the manufacturer's warranty process, product availability, and shipping lead times
• Seasonal factors – Minnesota winters can delay certain repairs until conditions allow (frozen ground, snow cover, temperature-sensitive materials)
• Scope of the issue – Simple fixes happen fast; larger structural or material concerns require scheduling, ordering, and coordination

At Lakeside Decking, we treat every warranty request with urgency—even when the fix itself takes time, you'll always know where things stand and what's coming next.

Technically, yes—but in most cases, we do not take on repair work for decks we didn’t build. The main reason is liability and long-term performance.

Once a contractor works on an existing structure:
• They can become responsible for the portion they touched
• Issues elsewhere in the structure can still affect the overall performance
• It becomes difficult to guarantee the entire system, not just the repair

If something fails later, it’s often unclear whether it’s related to the original build or the repair work.

In Minnesota, contractors are subject to statutory warranties under Chapter 327A, which apply to home improvement work:
• 1-year warranty for workmanship and materials
• 2-year warranty for certain systems (when applicable)
• 10-year liability for major structural defects

These warranties apply to projects involving structural changes or improvements, meaning even partial work can carry ongoing responsibility.

If a contractor repairs part of a deck:
• They may still be tied to the project legally for years
• They’re working on framing, footings, or connections they didn’t design or install
• There’s no clean way to ensure the entire structure meets current standards

Instead of repairs, a full rebuild allows:
• Everything to be brought up to current code (which are updated every three years)
• Proper design from the ground up (including footings and framing)
• A complete system that can be fully warranted and guaranteed

Bottom line:
While repairs are possible, we typically don’t service decks we didn’t build because we can’t confidently stand behind the entire structure—especially with Minnesota’s long-term liability requirements.

We focus on building complete systems we can fully guarantee, so there are no gray areas for you down the road.

Choosing the right deck builder comes down to experience, process, and trust—not just price.

Not all builders specialize in the same work
• Do they build custom decks, or mostly basic projects?
• Do they have experience with low-maintenance materials, porches, or pergolas?
• Can they handle complex designs and structural requirements?

Review past work
• Look at real project photos, not just stock images
• Check for consistency in quality and attention to detail
• See if their style aligns with what you want

A good builder should have a clear, organized process for:
• Design and planning
• Permits and approvals
• Communication during the build
• Project management and scheduling

Ask about communication
• Will you have a dedicated point of contact (Project Manager)?
• How often will you receive updates?
• How are questions or changes handled?

Check licensing, insurance, and reviews
• Properly licensed and insured in Minnesota (our license number is CR806901)
• Strong reviews and reputation
• Willingness to stand behind their work

Don’t choose based on price alone. Lower bids can sometimes mean:
• Corners being cut
• Lower-quality materials
• Less experienced crews

Focus on overall value, not just upfront cost.

The right builder should make you feel confident in:
• The design
• The process
• The final result

Bottom line:
The best deck builder is one with the experience, process, and communication to deliver a high-quality result—not just the lowest price.

We focus on a structured process, clear communication, and detailed execution so homeowners know exactly what to expect from start to finish.

Asking the right questions helps you understand a contractor’s experience, process, and quality standards—not just their price.

Experience and project fit
• Have you built projects similar to mine?
• Do you specialize in custom decks or standard builds?
• What materials do you typically recommend and why?

Design and planning
• Do you provide design services or plans?
• How do you handle permits, setbacks, and approvals?
• Will you help identify constraints like easements or lot coverage early?

Construction and materials
• What is your standard framing method (joist spacing, materials, etc.)?
• How do you protect the structure from moisture and long-term wear?
• What products and brands do you use?

Timeline and scheduling
• Approximately how long will the project take from start to finish?
• What could impact the timeline (weather, materials, inspections)?
• When could construction begin?

Communication
• Will I have a dedicated Project Manager?
• How often will I receive updates?
• How are questions or changes handled during the project?

Warranty and support
• What warranties are included (materials and labor)?
• Who handles warranty claims if something comes up?

Process and expectations
• What should I expect during construction?
• How do you handle jobsite cleanliness and yard protection?
• What happens if issues are discovered mid-project?

A good contractor should be able to answer these clearly and confidently—and their answers should reflect a structured process, not guesswork.

Bottom line:
Ask questions that go beyond price and focus on experience, process, and long-term performance.

The right contractor will have clear answers and a proven system—not just a proposal.

Yes—all contractors should be properly licensed and insured, no exceptions.

In Minnesota, residential contractors are required to be licensed through the Minnesota Department of Labor and Industry.

This ensures they:
• Meet state requirements
• Follow building codes and regulations
• Are legally allowed to perform the work

The Lakeside Decking license number is CR806901. Any contractor you use should be able to provide you with their unique license number, which can be verified through the Minnesota Department of Labor and Industry's iMS system (instructions here). 

A reputable contractor should carry:
• General liability insurance (protects your property)
• Workers’ compensation insurance (protects you from liability if someone is injured)

Without proper insurance, homeowners can be exposed to serious financial risk.

Lakeside Decking is insured through Farmer's Insurance - please ask us if you would like to see proof of coverage. 

Minnesota also has a Contractor Recovery Fund through the Minnesota Department of Labor and Industry.
• Provides financial protection to homeowners
• May offer compensation if a licensed contractor fails to meet obligations or causes loss
• Only applies if the contractor is properly licensed

Hiring a licensed and insured contractor:
• Protects you legally and financially
• Ensures accountability
• Gives you access to state-backed protections if needed

Bottom line:
Yes—your contractor should always be licensed and insured, no exceptions. It’s one of the most important safeguards in your project, and something every reputable builder will have in place.

In most cases, it’s best to start planning your deck 2–6 months in advance, depending on the time of year and project complexity.

What’s in your control as a homeowner
• How quickly you move through design, materials, and selections
• How long it takes to review proposals and sign agreements

Faster decisions can significantly shorten the overall timeline.

What’s in the builder’s control
• Current project backlog (especially busy in spring and summer)
• Crew availability
• Length and complexity of your project

High-demand builders often book out several months in advance, especially for custom work.

What’s out of our control
• Permit review timelines (typically 1–3+ weeks)
• Zoning or setback reviews
• Additional approvals (HOA, watershed, etc.)

Delays can happen if plans need revisions or during peak season.

What this means in practice
• Starting in winter or early spring is ideal for summer builds
• Planning early gives you more flexibility in schedule and design
• Waiting until peak season can limit availability and push timelines out

Bottom line:
Most deck projects should be scheduled a few months in advance, factoring in design decisions, builder availability, and permitting.

The earlier you start, the smoother the process tends to be—and the more control you have over timing and options.

Deck estimates can be presented in two different ways depending on where you are in the process: a price range or a final proposal.

Type 1: Price range
At the beginning of the process, many contractors provide a price range rather than a fixed number.

A good price range should include:
• A realistic low-to-high range (not overly broad or vague)
• A clear description of the general scope of work
• Explanation of what’s driving the price up or down, such as size and layout, material selections, site conditions (height, access, existing structures), and features like stairs, railings, lighting, or pergolas

This helps you understand what’s possible within your budget before finalizing details.

Type 2: Final proposal
Once the design and selections are finalized, you should receive a detailed proposal with a fixed price.

A complete proposal should include:

Defined scope of work
• Exact size, layout, and structure
• All included features (stairs, railing, lighting, pergolas, etc.)
• Demolition (if applicable)

Material specifications
• Decking brand and product line
• Framing materials and structure
• Railing systems and finishes

Cost breakdown or structure
• Clear pricing for the full project
• Any allowances or optional upgrades

Permits and approvals
• Whether permits, engineering, or coordination are included

Project logistics 
• Demolition and disposal of existing structures
• Dumpster or hauling costs
• Porta-potty and jobsite setup
• Site protection and cleanup

Timeline and expectations
• Estimated start timeframe
• Estimated construction duration

Warranty and support
• Manufacturer warranties
• Contractor workmanship warranty

Exclusions and assumptions
• What is not included
• Any conditions that could affect pricing

A price range helps guide decisions early, while a full proposal should give you complete clarity and confidence before moving forward.

Bottom line:
A good estimate—whether it’s a range or a final proposal—should clearly explain scope, pricing, and what’s included (and not included).

We focus on transparency from the start, so you understand exactly what you’re getting and can move forward without surprises.

Yes—we offer financing through Upgrade to help make your project more manageable.

We partner with Upgrade to provide a select range of competitive financing options, including:
• Monthly payment plans
• Plans with deferred interest for the promotional period
• Fixed rates and predictable payments
• Flexible terms based on your project and approval

When financing makes sense
• Spreading out the cost instead of paying everything upfront
• Moving forward with your project sooner
• Keeping flexibility in your budget for larger or more detailed builds

What to expect
• Simple application process
• Quick decisions in most cases
• Clear terms before you commit

Financing allows you to move forward with the design and materials you actually want—without needing to scale things back.

Bottom line:
Yes—we offer financing through Upgrade with a few strong, competitive options.

We make the process straightforward and transparent so you can focus on the project—not the payment logistics.